Back in August, a reader commented on an Associated Press article about a New England-wide quest for the perfect lobster roll. The reporter, she said, had missed one important spot: Mac's Seafood in Auburn.

Talking about the owners, she continued, "Jim (MacNaught) and Chuck (Lazaro)... make absolutely delicious lobster rolls, delectable fried clams and fantastic fried haddock. I would be surprised if you found better seafood anywhere in New England!"

She may have been right. I made my first trip to Mac's on Wednesday, and have to report that I was pleasantly surprised.

Now, Mac's is a tiny place, and very unassuming. At first, I actually wondered if they prepared food or simply operated as a fish market. But I spied picnic tables outside, and as I walked through the front door, I was greeted by the smell of fried seafood.

There was a small counter to the right facing an old, yellowed plastic menu board. Mac's offers most everything you'd expect to find at a seafood shack. Fish sandwiches ($4.99 to $6.99), fried clams ($10.99/pint, $21.99/quart), a chicken sandwich for the turf-without-surf types ($3.39), and, of course, lobster rolls.

Without thinking, I first ordered the fried haddock lunch ($8.99), which came with fries and coleslaw. I'm still on the hunt for the best fish and chips in the area, so I couldn't resist. It turned out to be a great choice. Lazaro dipped the haddock in flour and batter right before my eyes, then set it in a Frialator behind the counter.

While I waited for my lunch to cook, I asked about Mac's most popular menu items. Lazaro mentioned the haddock and fried clams, but at the top of the list, he said, were the lobster rolls.

I was excited about my fish, but realized I would be remiss to leave without trying one of the rolls, so I ordered a second lunch.

Lazaro had been fairly quiet, but the lobster roll request got him talking. "The way we do it is, it's pure, fresh-picked lobster meat," he said. "It's left plain."

It was up to me, therefore, to decide whether I wanted mayo and lettuce, warm butter, or lobster meat unadulterated.

I went for the butter.

I then watched as Lazaro selected pieces of lobster for the roll and weighed the meat on a scale. Small rolls ($10.99) have 2.5 ounces of meat, he said; large ($13.99), a full quarter-pound.

"A lobster roll is one of the most simple things in the world to make, and one of the most common things people complain about," he said. So often, places use frozen meat, skimpy portions, or too much in the way of fillers like mayonnaise.

I was looking forward to this roll more and more as Lazaro talked and stuffed a warm, buttered roll with the lobster meat. I'd ordered the food to go, and made for the car quickly after he wrapped everything up.

Back at the office, I sampled the cole slaw and French fries between bites of fried haddock and lobster roll.

The lobster roll as fantastic. Large chunks of fresh lobster with just the right amount of butter. The roll was toasted perfectly, still soft and chewy on the inside.

While the haddock needed a sprinkling of salt, and was a little tougher than I'd expected, I ate every bite. It was a nice, light batter that didn't leave me craving gallons of water after the meal. The coleslaw was good and light on the mayo, which I prefer. I didn't care for the fries, which were too crispy for my taste, so on my next visit I'll likely order the haddock sandwich without the sides.

I'll certainly have to try the fried clams in the future. And now that I'm in the habit of ordering double lunches, I'll have to go all out and splurge for the large lobster roll.

Anything to make the pleasure of such a good meal last a little longer.

Taste: 4.5 fish

Best lobster roll I've ever had at a Maine restaurant, and pretty darn good fried haddock, too.

Service: 4 fish

Co-owner Chuck Lazaro took my order, then turned around and did all the cooking. What talent! He's not super chatty at first, but warms right up if asked about lobster rolls.

Atmosphere: 3.5 fish

High marks for seafood shack authenticity, if not gleaming appliances. The tank of live lobsters, small counter and old, yellowed menu board set the scene indoors. Eat outside at picnic tables in the summer.

Eat Here:

Mac's Seafood, 894 Minot Ave., Auburn

Open: 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday. Closed Monday. You may want to call ahead in the winter when the business sometimes closes early.

Prices: Reasonable

Credit Cards: Yes

Contact: 777-5871

Ratings based on a five-fish scale, with five being the best.