No tree-lined streets replete with little gift boutiques selling quirky bags, Miso Pretty toiletries, Jesus action figures and just-for-fun gift books here.

No Peete's Coffee & Tea, no indie clothing stores, no downtown Barnes and Nobles and no Indian restaurants of any kind.

Sue me for stating the obvious a little too baldly, but Lewiston just isn't your typical college town - a fact that worries some prospective college students and transplants - enough so that the city's offerings (or perceived lack thereof) have been getting a beating on the college discussion forum site College Confidential.

"I found it to be...underwhelming. The town left a lot to be desired," says one poster.

"You probably will hate Lewiston if you go driving around, it's pretty rundown and ugly," says another - just a taste of what's there. Bates College student Web site www.dailyjolt.com claims 56 percent of students feel unsafe off campus.

But never fear, newbies. Who wants to shop for the same "unique" wares that are being sold at bookstores and boutiques in college towns across the country, anyway?

L-A is a gem of a place largely - at least according to those who've chosen to live here - because it has yet to morph into the same-old, same-old commercialized town. So says Brandon Cox, 30, of Sabattus. "Everything is here that you need, but there's not too much that you don't need," he said.

As one converted Batesie posts on College Confidential, "I'm a Bates student and Lewiston really isn't that bad. I think the part people tend not to like is the center of the city, which is not the nicest looking place. But I think it has character as its old mills and architecture give it a historic New England feel."

The city has kept its history, all right.

And what a history. Lewiston's Franco past is legendary. Want a taste? Head to a local diner (try Rolly's, for example) and order creton or crepes with breakfast.

Going to school in a place where hockey is king (or something close, anyway), you can get an icy blast from the past at a Maineiacs game - and see what sports were like all across the country before they became big-buck commercialized.

But L-A's shine is more than just history. Old downtown buildings and textile mills are being renovated into upscale, fun, locally owned restaurants and watering holes. Major routes lead to all sorts of reliable and unique retail potential (don't miss Marden's), but in five minutes - literally - you can be at the cutest ski area in Maine.

Here's some local wisdom for newcomers - from our favorite places to talk politics and eat local food, to our tips for getting some wild and wacky entertainment, and everything in between.

"What's that smell?" Years ago, the predominant aroma in town came from the Androscoggin River - not the healthiest place to play back then. Now it's the wafting scent of baking bread from the Lepage Bakeries' Country Kitchen, downtown.

Prague in the U.S.? I studied abroad in Prague my junior year. Let's just say it surprised me immensely to find walking the streets of LA almost as enjoyable as wandering down Vaclavske Namesti in the Czech Republic. Towering greenish-metal spires? Carved cornices and painted moldings? Even the run-down buildings are architectural gems, here. Bring a camera! Chip Morrison, head of the local Chamber of Commerce, gives walking tours. Get out of your shell and take the tour.

How do you pronounce that, again? If you took French in high school, you may be tempted to say "boh-lyuh" when you see the name "Beaulieu," because that's how it's pronounced en francais. Not here. After centuries of living in the New World, Lewiston Francos say "bul-yer" instead. Same goes for Gagne: Don't say "ganyay," say "gag-knee." It's not "day-jar-dan," like you're talking about those gardens over there, but "des-jar-dinz," with every syllable spoken. And to make it harder, Cloutier has two pronunciations: "clew-tee-ur" and "clew-chee." Go figure.

What, exactly, is there to do here? L-A ain't Boston, for sure, but contrary to popular belief there actually *is* quite a bit to do both in town and in the surrounding areas. Especially if you don't mind leaving your comfort zone.

• Get a taste of old-time fun at the Rollerdrome just over the river in Auburn. Yes, it's still open for business - and it makes for an interesting night out on rollerskates!

• Get in touch with the 1950s on Saturday night's at Val's Drive-In on Sabattus Street in Lewiston. Famous for their locally brewed root beer, Val's also boasts a poodle-skirt night on Saturdays until it closes for the season (so go before Sept. 8).

• Have a bite to eat at an extremely diverse array of restaurants (see page 3 for where b has been so far). And by diverse, I don't mean diverse like Indian, Malaysian and Czech choices, but rather a mix of both old-time cooking that's hard to find in most cities and new up-and-coming restaurants with fresh, creative cuisine. And so far, b hasn't even scratched the surface.

• Speaking of not having scratched the surface, there are more bars than it might seem at first glance. Some people love Gritty McDuff's in Auburn. Brendan Cox favors Pub 33 and That's a Wrap, both in Lewiston. There's (mechanical) bull riding at Auburn's Club Texas, dancing at Mixers in Sabattus, food and drink at Gipper's in Auburn and Margaritas (currently in Lewiston, but soon to relocate to Auburn), and the usual bar fare of drink-and-chat at the Blue Goose, in Lewiston. And more. Pick your favorite and let us know.

That's entertainment! What happens when you drop a Mento into a bottle of Coke? You've all seen the YouTube video, but did you know the two creators are from right nearby? Yessiree - Fritz Grobe and Stephen Voltz are from Buckfield and sometimes perform at the Oddfellow Theater there, along with other hilarious acts brought by Mike Miclon.

Want some local color?

• Simones Hot Dog Stand (really a small restaurant) on Chestnut Street downtown is the place to go to chat local politics.

• Rolly's Diner just over the bridge in Auburn is where to go for some funky decoration and fabulous crepes.

• Catch a show at L-A's favorite, The Public Theatre, which got the most votes of anything in a Sun Journal poll last year.

• Learn what sports sans commercialization are all about at a Maineiacs game at the Androscoggin Bank Colisee.

• Buy cheap rice, real cinnamon sticks and funky cloth at the numerous hallal stores around town.

• Pick apples at Wallingford's orchards in Auburn and find out what a REAL doughnut is like.

• Learn to ski or snowboard at the coolest small ski slope ever, right in Auburn at Lost Valley.

• Are you familiar with "whoopie pie?" Start at Sam's Italian Restaurants - rumored to be one of the earliest restaurants here to offer pizza - and go from there.

And then there's shopping. Ahh, shopping. While L-A certainly doesn't have the options that, say, Portland has, this is the place to get a bargain. We don't have a Barnes and Noble, but Mr. Paperback in Lewiston rents out books on tape and cd for a few dollars a week. For other needs, there's the usual chain stores - Kohl's, Sears, TJ Maxx, Wal-Mart, Kmart, Home Depot and Lowe's. But you'll also find nice stuff at college-kid prices at places like Marden's on outer Main Street in Lewiston. It's very much a Maine thing. The store buys overstocked or damaged goods and you can find everything from funky planters to fabulous fabric to clothes and books to toiletries. Sort of like Marshall's, but cheaper. You can also find great bargains at Chapter 11 in Lewiston and Big Lots in Auburn, across the parking lot from the Auburn Flagship Cinema.

Movies? Go Pats! The Auburn Flagship Cinema is showing Patriots games - completely free - on the big screen, all fall. Serving beer, too.



Fair weather ahead. You'll probably spend a lot of your time on campus on weekends, but if you ever get bored of college offerings, there are always festivals and fairs. The Greek Festival - at the Church of the Holy Trinity next weekend - is loads of fun, with live music, Greek dancing, gyros, ouzo and retsina to tide you over until you can make it to Crete on your own. Go here for more fairs: www.maine.info/festivals.html.

More info on L-A's gems:

www.sunjournal.com/story/1997943/MaineNews/Virtual_love_letter_to_your_LA_Gems/

www.sunjournal.com/story/199793-3/MaineNews/LA_gems_Vignettes/ for more