NEW GLOUCESTER - Frozen custard is apparently a delicacy in these parts. So much so, in fact, that the Hodgman family, who've been running Hodgman's Frozen Custard Stand since the mid-1940s, haven't gotten to see the 4th of July fireworks as a family - ever: They've always been too busy serving up custard.

Ever since I moved to L-A, I've been hearing about it. Usually people here describe Hodgman's in hushed tones, a glimmer of awe audible in their voices. I had to try it, they told me. B had to feature it.

And so it was that on a hot Wednesday afternoon, with excitement, not trepidation (I fell in love with peppermint stick ice cream at the tender age of 7 months, so you could even say I've been preparing for this role my whole life), I drove out to New Gloucester, a few dollars stuffed into my jeans pocket.

It's obvious Hodgman's is a landmark from the moment you see it from your side of the windshield. The stand is big and painted white, and it could easily be a movie set ice cream shop. It hardly looks real.

The cars parked out front add to the "legendary" look. When I arrived - around 2:30 on a weekday - there were three or four, and several more pulled in just as I was leaving. A big sign advertised the flavor of the day - pumpkin. It's one of my favorite ice creams, and I was excited to get to taste it in custard form.

I ordered a small, in a sugar cone, with chocolate jimmies. It came carefully wrapped in a napkin. I paid and walked toward my car before taking the first lick. And stopped in my tracks.

My goodness, it was good. Not quite as soft as soft-serve. Creamy and rich. Sweet, but not overpoweringly so. It's hard to come up with an accurate description, though, because eating it made me feel rather transported. And since it was hot out, and I took my time at first, I spent a lot of energy making sure I wouldn't be wearing it to work that afternoon.

The people around me seemed to be having the same sort of experiences. No driving with a cone for people who eat Hodgman's - everybody I saw there sat or stood still and savored every bite.

Deeelicious.

Now, if you haven't been, I'd definitely recommend a trip. Just don't go past 7 p.m. on the 4th of July: The family is finally going to see the fireworks together this year, and are closing up early that night for the very first time.

What: Hodgman's Frozen Custard Stand

Where: 1108 Lewiston Road, New Gloucester

When: 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m.

Why: Deeelicious frozen custard

Atmosphere: Your typical ice cream stand, but very charming.

Prices: Middling for frozen treats - a small runs below $3

Contact: 926-3553