Road Trip: North Country Loop
Story and photos by H. Joie Crockett
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Special to the Sun Journal
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Wilderness? Yes! And beauty, and fun, and adventure, and history...
Now that gas prices are beginning to fall, and autumn is fast approaching with the trees changing colors, it is time to take a road trip on the North Country Loop. This is not a trip to be made in one day, as there is so much to see and do up there. We took two days and there were still places we didn't have time to visit. One of those: the spot where the World War II prisoner of war camp was at Lake Spencer.
The camp housed German prisoners from 1944 to 1946. These prisoners were treated very well. The POWs were allowed to work if they wanted to, either in the logging industries, or picking potatoes or other vegetables in season, and were paid a dollar a day for it, either in cash or in script that could be used at the base commissary if they were housed in the Houlton camp. Up there they were even allowed to buy beer.
It's said that a lot of the prisoners and their captors and the townspeople developed friendships after time. The foundations are still at Spencer Lake, along with a huge Dutch oven and thanks to some eighth-grade kids in Jackman, there is now a plaque to mark the location. This is just another example of all the rich history to be found here in Maine. http://fanset6.blogspot.com/2006/12/discovery-of-pow-camp-provides-lesson.html.
Along with that, there are the Native American petroglyphs on a rock on the Kennebec River in Solon, across the river from Evergreen Camps. These are in amazing condition and not hard to get to. Some are said to be 5,000 (or more) years old, some as new as 1620.
Then there is Mount Kineo, which not only has some of the most beautiful and amazing 360 degree views from the top that I've seen anywhere in Maine, but the mountain is made up of flint which was very valuable to the Native Americans who came there to harvest it. Flint from Mount Kineo has been found as far south as Virginia, and as far west as the Great Lakes.
And along the way to these locations there are all the really great things that I stumbled across when going through some of the smaller towns and villages on the way. There was an 8-acre corn maze that will open on Aug. 30 through Nov. 1 on Route 7 near Corinna, or the antique Fire Truck Engine No. 1 in Sangerville, sitting in a lot with grass growing up around it.
There was the old train depot at the base of Borestone Mountain in Elliotsville Plantation, most likely used for logging purposes, and a sunset vista at a new rest area being built on Route 201 just south of Solon.
I ran into Bob Haynes, coordinator of the Old Canada Road Scenic Byway, which runs from Solon to the Canadian border above Jackman. Haynes is full of history and has a lot to tell, but the new 140-acre rest stop will (and does) have some of the most beautiful scenic sunsets in the state. It is being built on Robin's Hill.
Another person of note is Russell Walters, a Maine Guide and president of Northern Outdoors, a fantastic "oasis" in the middle of the Maine woods. Situated on Route 201, this establishment can take care of all your adventure needs - from rafting to snowmobiles and everything in between. They have a microbrewery on the premises and much more than I can tell about here.
The camp I stayed at in Jackman was not only reasonable, but picturesque, and offered more than was needed. For $30 per night per person, we had a cabin that sleeps six, had a full kitchen and bath, a living room with satellite T.V. and also a foot locker full of movies if the weather was bad.
Outside there were fire pits (they provide the wood), BBQs, and canoes, kayaks and paddle boats for rental. They welcome ATVs and snowmobiles, have guided bear, deer, moose, coyote and grouse hunts, or you can just throw in a line and fish. We never saw the owners until we were checking out. When I got there, a note was taped to the door telling me which camp I was in and to make myself at home, the key was on the table. Northern hospitality. Greenville has many good restaurants to eat at but my pick was The Black Frog, where we sat out on the enclosed porch watching the Katahdin Steamboat come in from one of its excursions on Moosehead Lake while leisurely enjoying our very good lunch.
In Abbot Village I stopped in at a bakery and immediately took in the smell of fresh baked pies, and sure enough there was a table full of them, hot from the oven, sitting in front of the window cooling. It also has the best date filled molasses cookies I have even tasted.
This trip was filled with surprises from the first stop at the Front Porch Café in Newport, to the amazing sunset at the rest stop in Solon, and everything in between including watching a moose cow eat her breakfast along the side of the road on Route 15 between Jackman and Rockwood. I stopped and walked close enough to get a good photo of her.
Mount Kineo is the most amazing and difficult hike I have done yet. But after 11 or more straight days of rain, which made the trails thick with mud and the rocks very slippery, I couldn't expect any less.
The view from the fire tower at the top was well worth any hardship I may have had to endure on the way up. The Indian trail which we took up runs along the very steep rock face of Mount Kineo, but there were fantastic views the entire way up. There is another trail, the Bridal trail, easier climb but it winds through the woods and not only doesn't give any views, but was almost totally mud. There is a short 10-minute boat shuttle to get to the island, and the captain will direct you to the trails. The cost is minimal, only $10 for a round trip. If you like golf, you can use the public course on Mount Kineo.
The steamboat Katahdin in Greenville takes different cruises, some three hours to Sugar Island, and another five-hour cruise to Mount Kineo. I viewed the Katahdin going around Kineo while I was hiking up the Mountain.
We sat out at night at Long Pond Camps and found enough dry wood to have a good fire going, and it was a very relaxing way to end a busy day, during the night you could hear the twitter of raccoons looking for tidbits left out by campers. In the morning the sunrise over Long Pond was glorious after all the rain, and there is the old Montreal, Maine and Atlantic Railway that runs along it, (also the same one that passes at the base of Borestone Mountain) and there are old telephone poles running along the tracks, still with wires hanging from them, and the poles still full of the old insulators that you see at antique shops and yard sales. It was almost like stepping back in time for a couple of days. The pace was slow, and the air clean, and the views magnificent.
And if the color of the trees that are changing already up north are any indication of what the color show will be this fall, it is going to be a show not to be missed. I heard a lot of groaning about the colors changing already, and it's not a lot yet, but if you want some great fall foliage, perhaps another few weeks would be a good time to take a drive up north and check it out, along with everything else: the moose, steamboats, mountains to climb, hunting, shopping, sunrises and sunsets, bonfires at dusk … and that's just for beginners. Take the time to make the North Country loop, you won't regret it. Front Porch BBQ & Grill
Felix Thibodaux, owner, Moosehead Trail, Route 11-7, Newport, 368-9002
Make this your first stop on your trip and talk to Felix, or sit out on his porch and enjoy lunch. There is also a "what-not" shop in the same building so you can have lunch and do some shopping. Thunder Road Farm
178 Newport Road, Corinna, 278-2676
http://personalpages.tdstelme.net/~trfarm/
This farm will have an 8-acre corn maze opening the end of August and they have a farm stand. Sleigh Antiques and Country Shop
Moosehead Trail at the corner of routes 15 and 16, Abbot Village, 876-4728
This shop has a lot to offer and if you are a Betty Boop fan they have a lot of memorabilia. Abbot Village Bakery
Moosehead Trail, 106 Main Road, Route 15, Abbot Village, 876-4243
They have some of the best cookies and homemade pies around. Ask about the "skidder tire donut." Borestone Mountain Audubon Sanctuary
Elliotsville Plantation, 631-4050 June-September, 781-2330 October-May, maineaudubon.org/explore/centers/borestone.shtml
Take Route 15/6 to Monson. Turn right (heading north) onto Elliotsville Road. After 8 miles turn left, after the bridge, onto Bodfish Road. Parking area is approximately .2 miles on the left, after the railroad tracks. The gate and trailhead are on the right. Bring bug repellent. Katahdin Steamboat Cruises
12 Lily Bay Road, Greenville, 695-2716, katahdincruises.com
The cruise boat runs from July to October, so there is still plenty of time to take a ride on the steamboat. Cruises run from 3 to 5 hours, depending on day and number of passengers. Great views from this trip. Joe Bolf, Chainsaw Carver
11 Minden St., Greenville, 695-0380, joebolf.com
Stop in and meet Joe and see and buy some of his amazing carvings. The Black Frog
Pritham Avenue, Greenville, 695-1100, www.theblackfrog.com
This is a great restaurant to stop off and relax while you enjoy lunch or dinner, either inside the building or on the glass-enclosed porch area. The service and food are great. Watch the boats come and go while you enjoy lunch. Moosehead Lake Indian Store
3 Lily Bay Road, Greenville, 695-0789, mooseheadlakeindianstore.com
There is more here than meets the eye. A large store where you can everything from antiques to toys, snacks to incense and antlers to boot. Mount Kineo
Rockwood, moosehead.net/hiking/kineo.html
Mount Kineo can be reached by a short boat shuttle run by the Kineo Golf Course leaving from a dock in Rockwood on the hour from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. If you like hiking you don't want to miss this one, and the 360-degree views from the fire tower are worth the trip up. Long Pond Camps & Guide Service
Long Pond Road, Route 15, Jackman, 668-4872, longpondcamps.com
These are great fully-equipped housekeeping camps on a quiet pond and you can't beat the price. Check them out. Northern Outdoors
Route 201, The Forks, 633-4466, northernoutdoors.com
When you are tired and hungry and about ready to give up on finding anywhere to satisfy your thirst and hunger, this is the place. Go for a rafting trip, visit in winter on snowmobiles, use their outdoor hot tub and try out their own brew that is made on-site at the Kennebec River Brewery. The Evergreens Campground and Restaurant
202 Ferry St., Solon, 643-2324, evergreenscampground.com
Camp here and visit the ancient petroglyphs found on a large rock across the river from the site. Easy boat access or a short hike through the woods. They also have a mini Native American artifact museum in the main camp. Robin's Hill Rest Stop
Route 201, a few miles south of Solon, byways.org/explore/byways/11510/
This is a beautiful road to explore Maine on. Very scenic, beautiful vistas, great rest stops, and you can go rafting, snowmobiles, ATVs and any outdoor sport. This new rest stop has a fantastic sunset views of the Bigelow Mountains among others. There will be hiking trails in the future at the rest stop. |