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The Maine Coast Islands National Wildlife Refuge, managed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, is comprised of five individual refuge units—Petit Manan, Cross Island, Seal Island, Franklin Island and Pond Island—and 76 offshore islands, a 9,478-acre complex that ranges along the coast from the mouth of the Kennebec River to the Cutler Coast. 

MCINWR protects an incredible ecological diversity of landscapes, from forested and barren islands and a coastal salt marsh to open meadows and upland mature spruce-fir forest. The islands provide habitat for nesting seabirds, wading birds and bald eagles, while the mainland parcels support habitat for migratory songbirds, shorebirds and waterfowl. 

The Petit Manan National Wildlife Refuge on Petit Manan Point and Bois Bubert Island on the Downeast coast in the town of Steuben protects 2,178 acres of jack pine forests, raised heath peatlands, blueberry barrens, old hayfields, freshwater and saltwater marshes, cedar swamps, granite coastline and cobble beaches. 

Petit Manan, which translates to “little island” from a combination of French and Micmac, was so named by the explorer Samuel de Champlain to distinguish it from the larger island of Grand Manan, farther north in the Bay of Fundy in New Brunswick. “Manan” is the Micmac term for “island out to sea.” Petit Manan Point is considered to be one of the foggiest places along the Maine coast, averaging 70 days of thick weather per year. 

Two trails totaling 6 miles of hiking allow visitors to explore the beauty of Petit Manan on foot. The refuge is open year-round during daylight hours. Dogs are allowed on a leash. Blueberry picking is permitted, but only by hand. Portions of the refuge are open to hunting, so blaze orange clothing is advised during the season. Trail maps are available at the large information kiosk soon after entering the refuge. 

The John Hollingsworth Memorial Trail is a 2-mile lollipop loop leading east to Pigeon Hill Bay. Chair Pond and Chair Pond Cove are separated by a beautiful arc of sand and gravel beach. Here, you’ll find an Adirondack chair built for two to enjoy this sweet spot, which features a view down the cove to Petit Manan Light, located 4 miles offshore. At 119 feet, this granite lighthouse built in 1854 is the second tallest on the Maine coast. 

The trail remains in the open along the rocky ocean margin as it winds around Chair Pond Head, revealing views up the bay to the prominent bump of Pigeon Hill and directly across to Bois Bubert Island. By the way, Pigeon Hill and 170 acres around it are owned by the Downeast Coastal Conservancy. A network of four short trails climb to the 317-foot peak, where there is one heckuva fine view. It’s something to add to your to-do list for another time. 

The Birch Point Trail heads west to Dyer Bay on a 4-mile round-trip route. A must-do side trail leads to Lobster Point, where you’ll enjoy views south down Carrying Place Cove and north to the bay. It’s a remote and wild feeling spot, for sure. The short but sweet loop around Birch Point offers more water vistas and more chances for some shoreline scrambling. Double Adirondack chairs at both points are a nice bonus. 

Seeing the Petit Manan refuge as it is today, you could never imagine that the place was once proposed to be the next Bar Harbor of the Maine coast, but that’s exactly what the Petit Manan Land Company had plans for in 1896, with 1,300 cottage lots, two hotels, a casino, a steamboat dock, a deer preserve and a swimming beach. 

Some of this infrastructure was built over time, but despite the determined efforts of a series of land companies, the venture ultimately failed. Only a small church remains of the development scheme. The land was donated to The Nature Conservancy in 1975 and transferred to the federal government the following year. 

Looking for more around these parts? Neighboring Gouldsboro has plenty. The Salt Marsh Trail and Corea Heath Trail are refuge paths. And the Frenchman Bay Conservancy, Downeast Coastal Conservancy and the Maine Coast Heritage Trust also maintain a number of preserves with hiking trails in the town.  

Post-hike refreshment options are limited but very good. The Pickled Wrinkle in Birch Harbor and Musquito Harbor Brewing Company in Winter Harbor will no doubt fill the bill. 

Carey Kish of Mount Desert Island is a Triple Crown hiker, freelance writer and author of three hiking guides. Connect with Carey on Facebook and Instagram and at [email protected].