Having spent the first night of our canoe trip on the Machias River camping near the outlet of First Machias Lake, my wife Nancy and I arose to a chilly, but sunny morning.
The sunrise over the lake provided a breathtakingly spectacular view, that was a welcome alternative to the usual morning news at home. It had been a cold night, in the 30s, but we had slept very comfortably in our 20-degree mummy style sleeping bags. Canoe trippers should always ensure that their sleeping bags are well protected from the elements, on or off the river, as they may ultimately be their last defense against hypothermia.
Normally, our first activity in the morning is to heat water for coffee.
Unfortunately, we found that we had accidentally brought decaffeinated coffee, which was not our preference. You always forget something on a canoe trip, however, while this oversight was painful, it was far from catastrophic. I always use a checklist to minimize such errors.
Cooking is obviously an essential part of the canoe tripping experience.
For a large group, a two-burner Coleman style stove is usually necessary. However, since there was just the two of us, we brought our one-burner MSR backpacking stove, and it met all of our cooking needs. I prefer stoves that are fueled by white gas, as opposed to bringing bottles of propane, which are heavier, more expensive and take up more space. We carry a cook set that consists of pots, bowls, plates, cups, silverware and a small frying pan.
Canoe tripping allows for a wide range of food choices, especially in the spring when the temperatures are generally quite cool. With a little creative planning, it is possible to prepare just about any meal that you would normally cook at home. However, we decided on more Spartan fare, which was lighter and required less planning and cooking gear. Prior to leaving home, we dehydrated chili and chicken pasta dinners and brought along a small canned ham, macaroni and cheese in a box and several packages of powdered soup. For breakfasts, we brought bagels, canned beans, instant oatmeal and Tang. We also brought nuts, dried fruit, pepperoni, cheese and sardines for snacks and lunch.
Canoe tripping is physically demanding, and you will probably have a greater need for calorie intake than normal. Water is also an issue that must be considered. We generally take a couple of gallons in used Gatorade containers, and then refill them using a hand operated PUR water purifier. As added protection, we also carry water purification tablets. Avoid the temptation to drink the water without purifying it. Even water from the most remote and pristine environments can carry bacteria that will result in a long and unpleasant digestive experience, as I can personally attest.
Other items that I consider canoe trip essentials are a first aid kit, headlamps, hatchet, camp saw and a repair kit. We always take and wear our lifejackets and we wear helmets in whitewater that is rated Class III or more in difficulty. There are a number of choices for paddles. We prefer light weight plastic paddles made by Werner (both canoe and kayak), because they are durable and relatively inexpensive. Many boaters are enthusiastic about custom made wooden paddles or hi-tech extremely lightweight models. I am not convinced that they are worth their added expense.
The proper clothing is another issue that merits thorough consideration. Obviously, anticipated weather conditions are a major factor. For spring paddling, we wear an inner layer of neoprene or a material called hydroskin for insulation, and an outer layer consisting of waterproof pants and a waterproof paddling jacket, along with neoprene booties and sandals. For clothes around the campsite, I take layers of poly shirts and underwear and an outer layer of pile and an old pair of hiking boots. I always carry an extra inner layer of paddling clothes, a rain suit and headgear.
After leaving the campsite at the outlet of First Machias Lake, there is about four miles of flatwater with a few relatively easy rapids, as the river meanders circuitously through a small valley. Shortly after an easy Class II rapid, you reach Carrick Rips, which is rated Class III.
It can and should be scouted on the right, as there is a large potential pinning, or broaching rock near the bottom on the right that was the scene of a fatality a few years ago. This rapid is easily run by boats without gear; however, since you normally need to begin the rapid tight right and then move hard left to avoid the pinning rock.
It is more problematic in a boat that is loaded with gear. Fortunately, our runs were uneventful, and we continued on past the confluence with the West Branch of the Machias, which is a short distance downriver. It is then about five miles of quickwater and intermittent rapids to the Class III Airline Rapid, which is located just below the bridge on Route 9.
This rapid can generally be run by stopping in eddies (calm spots in rapids created by rocks or the shoreline) and “boat scouting” the river below. It is also possible to scout or carry on the right. There is a Maine Forest Service Campsite below on the left, where we stopped for a rest and a late lunch.
From the Airline Rapid, it is about five miles of quickwater and flatwater to Little Falls, which is a fairly long and challenging Class III rapid with a tricky ledge drop. There is a portage trail on the left, and I generally portage some or all of my gear to the primitive campsite below the rapid. It is a much more enjoyable run, when you don’t have to be concerned about the safety and weight of your gear. After we portaged our gear and had run the rapid a couple of times, we decided to make camp there.
The Little Falls Campsite approaches perfection. There are several flat spots for tents that are close to the soothing sounds of the whitewater; and the pool below the falls collects a lot of driftwood, which provides fuel for fires and logs for seating. Once we were settled in, we checked our weather radio; which I have nicknamed “Kevin,” after my favorite television weatherman, and find invaluable. We didn’t receive the forecast we were hoping for. Originally, light and scattered showers were forecast for the following day. Instead, a major nor’easter was now predicted, with winds expected to exceed 40 miles-per-hour and a flood watch was in effect, because of an anticipated three inches of rain. We would not be able to paddle for any significant distance in 40 mile-per-hour winds. So, we formulated a two-fold plan; we would prepare ourselves to hunker down for couple of days in case the storm arrived early, yet arise at first light in hopes of paddling the remaining ten miles to the takeout prior to the arrival of severe conditions. We always bring extra food just in case of such an emergency, and this was one occasion when were especially glad that we had.
We were asleep before it was dark accompanied the by restful sounds provided by the falls and were up just after first light the following morning. Since the storm had not arrived, we had a quick breakfast, broke camp and were on the river before 7 a.m. There is about four miles of flatwater until you reach Mopang Stream, which enters on the right. Shortly after that, the Wigwam Rapids begin. The Wigwams consist of four separate and distinct sets of rapids that occur within a distance of about two miles. The first is a long Class III that begins just below a Quonset hut style hunting cabin on the right and there is an old road that parallels the rapid and can be used to portage or scout. Just after entering the rapid, there is a substantial ledge drop that can easily flip the unwary or inexperienced paddler. Since Nancy had misgivings about running this rapid, we decided it would be more expedient to portage her kayak around the ledge drop while scouting the rapid. I was able to identify what I considered to be a safe route on the far left and had a fairly good run. I took a fair amount of water over the gunnels and had to stop and bail water at the end of the rapid. However, a little bailing was preferable to taking the better part of an hour portaging gear.
None of the remaining three Wigwams is as substantial as the first. However, the third should be scouted or portaged on the left, as there is a complex ledge drop near the bottom of the rapid. We were able to negotiate these without any problems and, just as we were finishing the third, the storm began. However, initially, it consisted of a steady light rain and only moderate winds. Despite the conditions, we were able to paddle the remaining five miles of flatwater in relatively quick order, and reached the takeout and the warmth and protection of our vehicle around 10 a.m. While we had been prepared to wait out the storm in our tent at Little Falls, we considered ourselves fortunate to have avoided that inconvenience. We learned the next day that the river had nearly doubled in volume overnight and the 40 mile-an-hour winds had, indeed, materialized.
As usual, the Machias had been an adventure.
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