AZISCOHOS LAKE – We had tailwinds from the north in excess of 30 knots. The heavy winds were causing large breaking waves that were surfing us down the lake. We fought to prevent our kayaks from turning sideways into the wind, which would increase the likelihood of flipping. Sometimes, a large wave would break just as it reached the stern of one of our boats and push it several feet past the other.
It was a struggle as we contended with windblown spray from the wave tops, while we kept a watchful eye on one another.
We were kayaking down the south end of the lake and were getting a workout. My wife, Nancy, was about 20 yards to my right, and the waves were so large that only her head and shoulders were visible at times. These weren’t ocean-size swells, but they were all that we wanted, and more. When we left our campsite just a short time before, the conditions appeared to be quite benign. But the winds had quickly picked up, and there was no turning around. The choice was simple – ride it out.
I have more difficulty controlling my sea kayak when there are heavy tailwinds. Unlike whitewater, where the action is in front of you, tailwinds are churning up activity that you can’t see until it engulfs you. I find myself constantly leaning and taking corrective strokes to hold my course of direction.
Fortunately for Nancy, she had a rudder, which eliminates some of the need for correction. But she still had her hands full. Meanwhile, I was kicking myself for trying to save a little money by not buying a rudder. When it comes to making wise purchasing decisions, it seems like the numbers are heavily skewed in Nancy’s favor.
We were on the last day of a three-day kayak trip on Aziscohos Lake in a remote section of western Maine, just south of the Canadian border. Although the winds had blown steadily out of the north for most of the previous two days, they had been comparatively light and hadn’t been an obstacle.
Today was a different story. We blew past Beaver Island, the southernmost island on the lake, and turned the last point on the east shore in breaking surf. From there, it was a rollicking mile-and-a-half of paddling to the calm and safety of the sheltered Black Brook Cove, which is at the southeastern tip of the lake.
We had read and heard many positive observations about the remote character and scenic beauty of Aziscohos. It lived up to our expectations during our first visit. Surrounded by mountains and steep cliffs, it reminded me of an inland fjord that we had paddled a couple of years ago in Newfoundland.
Aziscohos has also been the site of several archaeological digs in recent years, and those efforts have established that humans inhabited this area more than 10,000 years ago. Actually a man-made lake, it is sufficiently undeveloped, particularly the southern half, so that it has a pristine and almost primal quality to it. One is left with the impression that little has changed in the last 10 millennia since ancient aboriginal people roamed this area.
Black Brook Campground maintains 16 remote water-access only campsites on the southern half of the lake. Each secluded site has a picnic table, fire ring, private beach and an outhouse. We reserved a site as far up on the east shore as possible, so that we would be well-positioned to explore northern portions of the lake during the second day of our stay. While we chose to paddle our sea kayaks, it is possible to arrange boat transportation to the campsites at the campground office.
When we purchased our sea kayaks two years ago, we didn’t anticipate using them for lake camping trips. It didn’t take long to realize that they are ideal for that activity. For many years, we have used canoes for lake camping. Kayaks are faster and have a lower profile, so they are better suited for the windy conditions that are prevalent on large lakes. Two solo touring kayaks can easily carry sufficient food and equipment to support a multi-day trip.
We used our solo Perception Shadow sea kayaks. They are 17 feet long and made of plastic. As is true with many sea kayaks, they have storage areas in both the bow and stern that can be accessed through hatch covers. There is also some storage space in the cockpit area, and it is possible to carry a limited amount of gear on the deck.
Safety should be a primary consideration. We take spare paddles, self-rescue equipment, flares, compasses, tow ropes, strobe lights and fog horns. Always wear a life jacket and take sufficient food and water to meet your anticipated needs, plus a little extra for unexpected circumstances. It is also a good idea to get professional instruction prior to going on a kayak trip. It should include paddling techniques, wet exits and rescues. Learning to roll your kayak is an invaluable asset. Developing good paddling skills so that you can control your boat in difficult circumstances without flipping is probably the most important safety measure.
On our first day, we paddled north, past a large cove on the right and up along the east shore of the lake. We located our campsite called The Ledge, which was difficult to spot from the water. Be sure to get precise directions to your campsite. On our second day, we paddled further north to explore. About midway up the lake, it narrows and the shoreline is steeper. It twists and turns in an S-shape and then widens again. Our original plan was to paddle to the lake’s northern terminus, but dark storm clouds convinced us that an early return was advisable. It was the right decision, as a severe thunderstorm passed just to our south and dumped copious amounts of rain on us. We watched this spectacular outdoor show sheltered in relative comfort under the tarp we erected over our picnic table. Never stay on the water in a thunderstorm – always seek immediate shelter.
Despite the storm, we had a wonderful three-day outdoor experience. Aziscohos is a scenic and peaceful lake. It was lightly used while we were there, with just an occasional motor boat, canoe or kayak passing by. And, the trip ended with our wild, exciting ride down the lake.
Since we arrived at the boat landing at midday, we decided to climb nearby Aziscohos Mountain. The trail head can be reached by driving about two miles west on Route 16. There is a sign marking the trail on the left, but there is only limited parking on the side of the road. The first part of the trail is quite wet, but don’t be discouraged; it dries as you gain elevation. It is about a four-mile, round-trip hike that is well worth the effort as the open summit affords 360-degree views. The summit area was formerly the site of a fire tower and, according to information provided on a sign nearby, mountains of Canada, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine can be seen, as well as 25 bodies of water in the Rangeley Lakes area. Most important to us, was a stunning view looking up the length of Aziscohos Lake.
Comments are no longer available on this story