Probably the most physically demanding, yet emotionally satisfying outdoor activity that I have experienced is winter mountaineering.
A day can consist of pulling a gear-laden sled towards a remote peak while cross country skiing, then breaking trail through deep snow on snowshoes to the top of the tree line and making the final ascent to the summit on crampons while using an ice ax. Frequently, you begin before first light and return in the dark using a headlamp. It requires strength, endurance and determination. Often, it almost seems like a test of will between the mountain and the mountaineer.
However, there is something aesthetically satisfying about the mountains in the winter, a rewarding sense of accomplishment.
There is a greater sense of solitude in the winter. I would describe it as a magnified feeling of oneness with the mountain and the environment. That’s because the mountains don’t attract many human guests in the winter months. With the exception of the Presidentials in New Hampshire, it is not unusual for your party to be the only one on the mountain.
Dangerous outing
Winter weather conditions in the mountains can become extreme. Winds quite regularly reach 40 miles an hour or more and can exceed 100. Temperatures may dip well below zero, and the combination of low temperatures and high winds can create life-threatening chill factors. Exposure and hypothermia are constant risks, and mountaineers must be fully prepared and equipped to deal with them. In some areas, avalanche is a danger, and often icy conditions can lead to injury or death due to falls.
Each year, the first days of winter bring out a small but growing number of winter mountaineers intent on challenging and conquering New England’s highest peaks. Some climb an occasional summit, while others are out every weekend and during vacations pursuing new mountain adventures. The latter are known in mountaineering circles as “peak baggers.” There are a number of different goals that they pursue, such as the Maine, New Hampshire and New England 4,000-footers or the 100 highest peaks in a particular state. But the ultimate New England bagging challenge is climbing the 100 highest peaks in New England in the winter.
New England’s 100 highest peaks include such familiar mountains as Katahdin, Killington and Washington, which at 6,288 feet is the highest. The list also includes such relatively unknowns as Fort Mountain in Baxter State Park, Scar Ridge in New Hampshire and Mendon in Vermont.
Some of the least-known peaks are the most remote and challenging. New Hampshire has the most with 58, followed by Maine with 28, and Vermont has 14. The Appalachian Mountain Club (AMC) maintains a list of the peaks and those who have accomplished the feat. At last count, more than 60 had been certified by the AMC to have climbed the 100 highest peaks in the winter, including about a dozen Mainers. To learn more about the peaks and the certification process, write to the AMC Four Thousand Footer Committee, 42 Eastman St., Concord, NH, 03301.
Safety first
Fitness and equipment are probably the two most important factors in winter mountaineering. It is not necessary to be a world-class athlete. But prospective winter mountaineers should have a relatively high level of cardiovascular fitness and sufficient leg and body strength to carry moderately heavy packs all day. They should also have the capacity to break trail with snowshoes and ascend steeply for an extended period with relatively heavy winter boots. I recommend that anyone who aspires to winter mountaineering begin hiking regularly in the summer and gradually take on more challenging hikes as winter approaches. If you can’t climb Mt. Washington in the fall, you shouldn’t attempt it in the winter. It’s probably advisable to have a year-round fitness program that includes cycling, running or fast-paced walking.
Having the proper equipment to deal with the elements is imperative, particularly footwear and gear. Most winter hikers I know have at least two types of boots: plastic winter mountaineering boots and lightweight heavily insulated waterproof or water-resistant synthetic boots. The plastic boots with liners are heavier, but are usually better suited for above tree-line hiking and climbing, where crampons are a necessity, and temperatures tend to be more extreme. The lightweight synthetic boots are usually better suited for snowshoeing below the tree line in warmer temperatures.
A quality pair of snowshoes is essential. They should be lightweight, small enough to maneuver in narrow, steep conditions and have claws attached to the bottom. Sherpa, Tubbs and MSR all retail snowshoes that meet these criteria. If you anticipate above tree-line mountaineering, you should have a pair of crampons that fit your winter boots. L.L. Bean in Freeport and EMS in South Portland both carry a fairly wide selection.
For the more remote summits, many mountaineers cross country ski while pulling their pack and gear on a sled. A book could be written about the choices in skis. I prefer waxless touring skis, as the scales seem to grip the snow better than wax skis when pulling a sled. A decision to include skiing in your winter mountaineering repertoire means that you will also need ski boots, which should also be well insulated and water resistant. Mountain Smith sells an excellent mountaineering sled. However, it is fairly easy to fashion your own by purchasing a plastic expedition snowsled at the local hardware store, attaching PVC poles to the sled and then to an ammunition belt around the skier’s waist.
Clothing should be layered. The inner layers should be polypro of varying strengths, and fleece should be carried or worn above it. An outer layer of breathable waterproof or water-resistant material, such as Gore-Tex, should always be worn or carried. Both lightweight and heavy duty headgear along with polypro and wool socks should be a part of the clothing list. Cotton clothing should be left at home. It is important to take extra clothing, because it is often necessary to change out of damp or sweaty clothes in order to avoid the onset of hypothermia. A heavy duty parka should always be included.
Plenty of food and water are necessary. The average person will need two to three quarts of water for a full day of winter hiking. Hydration is just as important in the winter. Insulate your canteens to avoid freezing and drink regularly no matter how inconvenient. Take more high energy food than you think you’ll need, as you will burn large amounts of calories on the typical winter mountaineering experience.
A mid-sized, lightweight pack that can carry snowshoes, crampons, an ice axe and other necessities should be chosen for day trips. There are numerous makes and models. I currently use a Mountain Smith Ghost, which meets all of my winter mountaineering needs. For overnight expeditions, I load gear into a waterproof duffel bag on my sled and carry the Mountain Smith on my back for use on the actual summit attempt.
In my opinion, winter mountaineering should not be a solo experience. There are simply too many risks. Find some friends or join a club that sponsors winter outings. In Maine, the Penobscot Paddle and Chowder society has a winter outdoor schedule, and information can be obtained by accessing its Web site at www.paddleandchowder.org The Randolph Mountain Club in New Hampshire also has a winter schedule and its Web site is at www.randolphmountainclub.org.
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