A winter hike up Mount Katahdin is as difficult as it is beautiful.
As we ascended steeply, we hugged the right side of the ridge to prevent being blown several hundred feet down into the cirque to our left. It was a frigid, but almost clear winter day. The winds were blowing in excess of 40 miles per hour from the northwest, sweeping down over the saddle and hammering us from the right. Every step had to be carefully planned to ensure that the crampons on the other foot were firmly gripping the ice and hard-packed snow. We planted our ice axes as deeply as possible for additional stability. We each had to be totally focused. This was neither the time nor place for error or clumsiness.
We were a team of climbers part way up the Cathedrals on Mount Katahdin. The views were spectacular, but intimidating. To our left were the near vertical cliffs that fell far below to Chimney Pond with Knife’s Edge towering above. To our right, ice and snow-covered granite ledges dropped into the basin between us and Hamlin Peak. Almost directly above us, and hidden by yet another large rock formation called a cathedral, was our goal – Baxter Peak, the summit of Mount Katahdin.
It seems like everything about climbing Mount Katahdin in the winter is difficult. On the night of the previous Oct. 31, I drove to Baxter State Park Headquarters in Millinocket. Like several others, I slept in my vehicle in the headquarters parking area that night, so that I could be one of the first in line for winter hut reservations the following morning. Fortunately, I had been successful, as there is only one wood-heated cabin at Chimney Pond, and the alternative is a cold stay in an open lean-to.
The process for obtaining park permission to hike and climb in the winter is, generously speaking, cumbersome. In advance of obtaining reservations, the park requires that a team leader and two co-leaders be appointed. They must submit detailed personal and trip information, including destination, itinerary, routes, winter experience in Baxter State Park and other wilderness areas. Further, the leader must obtain and submit personal information on all team members. Only after all of the required registrations forms are completed and the monies collected will the park consider reservation requests.
Follow the rules
The park has extensive winter-use regulations. Interested mountaineers should thoroughly familiarize themselves with all rules and requirements. The park reserves the right to deny access to teams that lack the skills, experience or equipment required, as defined by park authorities. The best starting point for obtaining the necessary information is accessing their Web site at www.baxterstateparkauthority.com.
To reach Baxter State Park from western and central Maine, drive north on Interstate 95 to the Medway exit, which is about an hour north of Bangor. Continue west on Route 11/157 through East Millinocket. As you enter Millinocket, the park headquarters is on the left. To reach the trailhead for a winter climb of Mount Katahdin from Chimney Pond, continue through Millinocket following the signs for the park until the Golden Road is reached near Millinocket Lake. Follow the Golden Road for about eight miles to Abol Bridge. Just before Abol Bridge, take a right turn to the winter parking area on the left. The Golden Road is usually plowed; however, it is probably advisable to take a four-wheel drive vehicle with high clearance. None of the park roads is open to vehicular traffic in the winter, although snowmobiles are allowed on the perimeter road.
Most hikers, skiers and mountaineers carry their food and gear on plastic sleds to Chimney Pond. Depending on the conditions, skis, snowshoes or winter hiking boots may be the appropriate footwear. From the parking area, follow the signs for the winter access trail to the Park Tote Road, which is a long mile away. Once the Tote Road is reached, turn right and travel about 3.5 miles to the Brook Road. Follow the Brook Road for about eight miles to Roaring Brook. The park requires that teams going to Chimney Pond must spend their first night at Roaring Brook, where there is one cabin and several lean-tos.
No strain, no gain
Chimney Pond is a little more than three miles from Roaring Brook and usually takes just a few hours. So, ambitious mountaineers may want to do a short climb of South Turner Mountain prior to leaving Roaring Brook. It is just a couple of miles north and affords outstanding views of Mount Katahdin and the surrounding area, but be sure to take both your snowshoes and crampons. The sled pull up the Chimney Pond Trail is usually fairly strenuous, as it is a steep, narrow hiking trail. Snowshoes, crampons or hiking boots may be necessary. Some climbers leave their skis at the closed Ranger cabin at Roaring Brook. If you do, you will forgo the opportunity for exciting backcountry ski opportunities in the Chimney Pond and North Basins.
The cabin at Chimney Pond has 12 bunks with a woodstove and a kitchen area. There is firewood in the adjoining shed. It is necessary to carry in everything else that is needed, including cookstoves, fuel, lanterns, cookware and sleeping gear. The water source is Chimney Pond, which is several hundred yards away and at the far end of the pond. The water should probably be purified. It’s a good idea to get reservations for at least three nights at the pond, as extreme weather frequently prevents summit climbs. For our summit attempt, we chose the Cathedral Trail, which is 1.7 miles to the highest point in Maine. It is about a half mile of snowshoeing through the woods to the base of the cathedrals, where there is frequently avalanche danger. The safest route is usually to the far right at the bottom and crampons and an ice ax are normally needed from this point on. The Cathedral Trail is essentially an exposed ridge and can be dangerous in heavy winds. Climbers should not hesitate to turn back if the weather is too extreme. Caution should be exercised throughout the climb. Conditions at the top of the ridge can be particularly treacherous. Once over the top, find and follow the cairns to the summit, which is marked with a sign and a large cairn. The views that you will experience are arguably unsurpassed in New England.
Once at the summit, there are several return options. One is a traverse of Knife’s Edge and a descent of the Dudley Trail. This is a fairly technical climb, and I have never been there when the conditions were favorable to attempt it. It is also possible to descend the Cathedral Trail or the nearby Saddle Trail, both of which return directly to Chimney Pond. Another alternative, which we chose, is to hike across the saddle and to the summit of Hamlin Peak, which is a couple of miles away. This is a spectacular hike that is completely above the treeline, but it should not be attempted in extreme weather.
Regardless, a winter trip to Mount Katahdin will provide memories that will last a lifetime.
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