During any season, Franconia Ridge in New Hampshire’s White Mountains is one of the most compellingly spectacular places in the Northeast.
In the winter, it takes on a particularly stark and majestic character. There are miles of rugged above-treeline alpine conditions on a massive granite ridge that is usually covered with ice and hard-packed, wind-driven snow.
It is often a place of extreme weather conditions.
Frequent high winds can cause dangerous hiking along the ridge line.
When cold temperatures are added to the mix, chill factors can drop to life-threatening levels. Winter storms can create whiteouts that completely disorient even the most seasoned mountaineers.
Despite the potential dangers or, perhaps, because of them, Franconia Ridge has a special appeal to winter climbers.
It provides a big mountain experience that in New England is only rivaled by the Presidentials and the peaks of Mount Katahdin.
The ridge begins north of Mount Lafayette, and runs south for over five miles beyond the summit of Mount Flume.
It includes two of the highest peaks in the northeast, Mount Lafayette at 5,260 feet and Mount Lincoln at 5,089, and the summits of Mounts Liberty and Flume; which exceed 4,000 feet.
Winter climbers flock to Franconia Ridge. It is nearly as popular as the Mount Washington area, and much more accessible than the Mount Katahdin region.
Situated in northwestern New Hampshire, the trailhead at Lafayette Place in Franconia Notch is reached by traveling west on Route 2 from Bethel, through Gorham, N.H., to Route 115 near Jefferson. Follow Route 115, and then Route 3, south to the Franconia Notch Parkway. Continue south on the parkway and follow the signs to Lafayette Place. It is about a two-hour drive from central Maine.
The weather conditions should be the first consideration when planning a climb on Franconia Ridge in the winter.
Prior to making the drive, get a detailed forecast.
An excellent source is to access the Crown Weather Web site at www.crownweather.com/highersummits and link to the summits forecast. If the predicted conditions are severe, choose another activity or a mountaineering option below the treeline.
For Mainers, the summit conditions should not be the sole weather determinant, as driving in the mountains can also be hazardous. If you arrive at the trailhead and the conditions are unexpectedly unfavorable, consider another local option. The Cannon and Kinsman Peaks can also be accessed from the Lafayette Place trailhead and have very limited above treeline exposure.
Bundle up
Having the proper clothing and gear are essential to a safe climb. Winter mountaineers climbing the ridge should have high quality winter boots, preferably plastic boots with insulated inner liners, snowshoes with claws and hiking poles. Although not normally necessary, ice axes can also be useful. The ridge should not be attempted in the winter without crampons, as they will almost certainly be needed above the treeline.
Other items that should be included are a map, compass, headlamp with spare bulbs and batteries, first aid kit and ski goggles. Emergency survival gear should also be a part of the equipment list. Climbers should take sleeping bags or bivy sacks and emergency clothing, such as fleece suits and down parkas. Also, pack a container of waterproof matches and an emergency whistle. For a day of winter hiking, take two to three quarts of water in insulated containers. Be sure to take plenty of high energy foods, such as gorp, nuts, cheeses and chocolate. Avoid foods that are difficult to eat when cold or that freeze easily. I find peanut butter and crackers or peanut butter cup candy bars to be easy to eat when cold and good sources of energy.
A good mid-sized, lightweight pack that can easily carry all of the necessary gear is a must. There are a number of good packs on the market and a wide selection can be found at retailers like LL Bean or EMS. I use a Mountain Smith Ghost that is water resistant, which can be a very valuable feature in stormy weather.
It’s a good idea to go with a team of climbers with a designated leader. Ideally, the leader would be the most experienced team member. There should be a plan on how to deal with emergency situations, and an agreed upon turnaround time. If someone is injured or conditions deteriorate dramatically while above the treeline, I believe that in most circumstances getting everyone below treeline should be the first priority. There have been scores of winter deaths in the high peaks of New Hampshire, and a large percentage of them have been due to hypothermia and exposure that occurred above treeline.
Clothing should consist of an outer shell of a breathable, water resistant material, such as gortex. There should be inner layers of polypro and fleece and climbers should add or remove layers as circumstances dictate. While staying warm is an obvious concern, it is also very important to avoid overheating.
Gortex mittens with fleece liners and polypro and wool socks are necessities. Headwear that provides for facial protection, such as a balaclava, should also be worn. Most winter climbers wear gaiters, which help keep the feet and lower legs warm and prevent snow from getting inside boots.
Take a hike
The trailhead at Lafayette Place is the beginning and end of a nine-mile loop trip that summits both Mounts Lincoln and Lafayette. It traverses a significant portion of the ridge with nearly 4000 feet of total elevation gain. Most winter climbers ascend the Falling Waters Trail, which forks to the right shortly after leaving the trailhead. It is easier going up along the three frozen waterfalls on the Falling Waters Trail, than coming down. Because the climb is so popular, snow on the trail is frequently packed. However, hikers should take snowshoes and be prepared to break trail below the treeline. It is a 3.2 mile steady ascent to the ridge. Climbers should then turn north, which is left, and continue steeply for 7/10 of a mile to the summit of Mount Lincoln.
It is about a mile from Mt. Lincoln to the summit of Mount Lafayette. The ridge walk itself is not particularly difficult, unless there are gusty winds or severe weather. However, caution should be exercised, as it is no place for an injury. If it is clear, most of the White Mountains Range will be visible while negotiating the ridge. To the immediate east, and southeast, are a couple of dozen 4,000 footers, with the Presidential Range towering over all of them to their northeast. To the north, the ragged, alpine-like summit of Mount Garfield is preeminent, and the Kinsman Ridge and Cannon Peaks dominate the western skyline on the opposite side of the notch. There are breathtaking views in all directions.
After reaching the summit of Mount Lafayette, descend the Old Bridle Path for about a mile to the Greenleaf AMC Hut, which is closed in the winter. Although there continues to be sporadic exposure, the treeline and relative safety are achieved shortly before reaching the hut. Normally, you will be able to discard your crampons and dawn your snowshoes while taking a break there. It is another three miles to the trailhead and completion of the loop at Lafayette Place. Once there, you can celebrate having completed one of the premiere winter mountaineering trips in New England.
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