The wonderland for cold-weather outdoor enthusiasts is just a day away in Quebec.
We were skiing through the mountains deep in a subarctic evergreen forest.
Sometimes, we climbed steadily using the herringbone technique or sidestepping with our skis on particularly steep grades. At other times, we glided almost effortlessly down long, twisting slopes through sparsely wooded tundra like terrain. On some of the more precipitous descents, we held the snowplow position throughout, while dragging our ski poles in an effort to slow down and maintain control. It was the most exciting and remote cross-country skiing that I have ever experienced.
We were an international group of eight skiers on an expedition in the Chic Choc Mountains in the Parc de la Gaspesie, which is in the heart of the Gaspe Peninsula in far eastern Quebec. The Chic Chocs arguably offer the best combination of cross country and backcountry skiing in eastern North America. Our goals were threefold: skiing the maintained trails from hut-to-hut in the park; climbing to the summit of the remote Mount Logan; and exploring its slopes while backcountry skiing.
The terrain in the Chic Chocs is mostly alpine tundra. The mountainous Gaspe Peninsula receives a steady dumping of water-effect snow from the Gulf of the St. Lawrence throughout the winter. The result is a winter wonderland and a skiers’ paradise.
The Parc de la Gaspesie, which encompasses much of the mountainous region in the north central part of the peninsula, maintains about 120 miles of wilderness ski trails and a network of remote huts. Further, there is a system of snowmobile trails that permits the motorized transportation of skiers’ gear from one hut to another.
To obtain information about skiing or other winter activities in the Parc de la Gaspesie, call the information center in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts at (418) 763-3301 or access Web sites that are in English at www.canadatrails.ca or www.bonjourquebec.com/anglais and link to Parc de la Gaspesie.
It takes a day to get to the Chic Chocs from central and western Maine. The most time-efficient route is to drive north on Interstate 95 to Houlton, and then north on Route 1 to Van Buren and cross into New Brunswick. Then follow Route 17 north through New Brunswick to Matapedia on the Province of Quebec border.
There are several places to access the park. Since we planned to ski in the western central section, we drove north on Routes 132 and 195 to the city of Matane on the south shore of the lower St. Lawrence River. From there, we drove east on the scenic coastal Route 132 to the village of Cap-Chat. Just before the bridge over the Cap-Chat River, we took a right turn and drove about 12 miles to the Relais-Chic-Chocs at Saint-Octave-de-L’Avenin, where we spent the night in a cabin before entering the park.
There is great cross country skiing right outside the cabin doors at the Relais.
The park provides a unique skiing experience. It is possible to obtain reservations at the huts that are located throughout the park and then have a duffel bag of gear transported by snowmobile, while you ski with a day pack from hut-to-hut. In most cases, the huts are located about a half day of skiing from one another. They have bunkrooms, a kitchen/eating area and woodstoves. They do not have running water, which must be obtained from local ponds, streams or by melting snow. There are unheated outhouses that are separate from the main buildings.
It is necessary to take bedding, stoves, lanterns, fuel and all necessary cooking gear and utensils. The woodstoves keep the cabins quite warm and can be used to heat water and warm soups and stews. Clothing should consist of outdoor wear suitable for cold-weather skiing and something appropriate for the relatively warm indoor hut temperatures. Food refrigeration is provided naturally by storing it next to windows or in packs outside the cabins.
It’s a good idea to take footwear for the huts, as the floors are often damp from tracked in snow. Most members of our group took sandals or insulated booties.
Selecting the right skis can be a dilemma, especially if backcountry skiing is a part of the planned agenda. Traditional touring skis are fine for most of the maintained trails, but depending on one’s skill level and the skiing goals, they can be quite limiting in the backcountry. Our group chose skis that would allow for both touring and limited backcounty exploration. I, along with several others, used waxable Fischer E99 Mountain Touring skis with steel edges.
We were evenly split on the choice in three-point versus single bar bindings. Most carried adjustable length poles. All four of us more cautious Mainers carried MSR snowshoes with claws as a backup.
Our first day of skiing was a 10-mile steady climb into the mountains from St. Octave to the Le Huard Hut. It included a long steep ascent, where skiing skins were advantageous. Skins are cloth materials that are attached to the bottom of skis to grip the snow when climbing and can be purchased at most businesses that carry Nordic ski equipment. They generally clip on or adhere to the ski. They can also be used to maintain slower speeds on exceptionally steep descents.
The Le Huard Hut is quite spacious and water is available by chipping through the ice in the nearby Lac Thibeault and then purifying it.
It is not unusual to have two or three skiing parties in the larger huts like Le Huard. This results in a chaotic, but thoroughly enjoyable social experience. The groups cook and eat their communal meals in shifts, while comparing gear and sharing stories about the day’s adventures. Since the stories are told in both English and French, sometimes simultaneously, they are frequently quite humorous, which adds to the comraderie. There is a tendency to bring too much food, so there is usually extra to share. On our first evening, a weary group of skiers came in quite late after a long day and had several warm dishes prepared by strangers awaiting them.
On our second day, we skied about 12 miles over demanding, hilly trails to Le Chouette Hut at the foot of Mount Logan. It is a small cabin that only sleeps eight people. When there is visibility, the Le Chouette provides spectacular views from its main window. We spent four days at Le Chouette and it snowed part or all of every day, giving us a continuous supply of fresh powder.
The following day, we were able to summit Mount Logan in gusty, partly stormy conditions. It is one of the highest peaks in the Gaspe, and the upper elevations are completely exposed. We had frigid winds blowing from the northwest and icy conditions. The skiing was very difficult and dangerous and I was glad that I had my snowshoes with the attached claws for the last few hundred yards. Fortunately, there was a small hut with a woodstove near the summit that provided us warm shelter.
We spent the following two days backcountry skiing and exploring the surrounding area. The trees are sparse and the slopes are steep, which provide for challenging skiing. It is pure heaven for skilled telemark skiers and our Quebec friends showed us their best. However, skiers should be alert to potential avalanche dangers in the high Chic Chocs. Park officials generally know the problem areas.
We finished our trip by returning to Le Huard for a night, and then enjoyed a predominantly downhill ski to the Relais-Chic-Chocs on our final day.
If you are a skiing enthusiast, there is an unforgettable experience awaiting you just a short distance away in the Chic Chocs.
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