LEWISTON – Before his heart attack, Roger Labrecque drove cabs and washed dishes at different restaurants, always with an eye on the kitchen.

In retirement, he’s made head chef.

For eight years, Labrecque hasn’t missed one of the twice-weekly meals at the Calvary United Methodist Church. He plots menus once a month. On Wednesdays, he spends 12-hours prepping and cooking. For Sunday breakfasts, he’s in at 3 a.m.

It’s all volunteer.

Penny Goodwin laughed to think what a newspaper ad with that description might look like: No pay, long hours, ready to feed up to 100. The Sabattus Street church started its City Mission project in 2001, deciding to serve free meals and do other outreach, not sure exactly what would happen.

“Then somebody like Roger shows up; you look back, oh my goodness, what a blessing,” Goodwin, a mission committee member, said.

Labrecque started at his brother Roland’s suggestion. It was either Easter or Mother’s Day and they wanted to give the cook a break. Labrecque liked it. He got his twin, Richard, involved, who in turn brought his family. It’s occasionally a church kitchen full of Labrecques.

“I love doing it,” Roger said. “The public always tells me they love the meals and that I’m doing an awesome job.”

He enjoys that it gets him out of the house. He lives on Pierce Street, close enough to walk.

On Wednesday at noon, Labrecque had turkey ala king simmering on a huge, old stove next to big pots of hot dogs and baked beans.

The day’s theme: potluck. Three bowls of oranges sat on a counter next to covered biscuits.

Between 80 and 90 people turn out on Wednesdays, 40 to 45 on Sundays. He thinks word has gotten around: it’s good food and you can get seconds or thirds.

Next week’s theme is Easter – he’ll cook 20 pounds of ham, 100 pounds of potatoes – and the week after that its macaroni and cheese and hot dogs. Serving for dinner starts at 5, for breakfast around 8 a.m.

“Most chefs you have to tip toe around but Roger’s easy to work with,” Goodwin said.

She’s the one who keeps him in chef’s outfits. Last Thanksgiving, he told her all seven turkeys had burned for a prank.

“Our people deserve the best, and they get the best from Roger,” she said.

Food for meals comes from Good Shepherd Food-Bank, Country Kitchen and church bean suppers. Donations come from Methodist church members on both sides of the river.

Labrecque, 54, grew up in Lewiston. Between prep work, and until other people arrive, he tackles crossword puzzles. Country music’s always playing on the kitchen radio.

He’ll keep the head chef post “as long as they want me.”

Hearing that, Gil Ross, another City Mission committee member said, “Is there any question?”