In his wonderful new book, “The Best of All Seasons,” Montana hunter and outdoor writer Dan Aadland speaks of the “hunter’s paradox.”

He writes, “The paradox refers to reverance for life even though we’re willing to kill.” Most deer hunters that I know respect and, in some cases, even revere the animals they hunt. I was brought up never to hunt or kill an animal that I would not eat, and consuming the kill and gaining sustenance from it helps reconcile the paradox – not in everyone’s eyes, but at least in mine.

Then there is the useful observation made about our fellow travelers who are stridently opposed to hunting: most of the anti-hunting folks have never been hungry, really hungry. This tired old debate may take on some fresh meaning as we begin the difficult journey into the New Energy Era. The price of the food we buy, for a lot of reasons, is a direct product of the cost of energy. Whether we are talking about chickens, steaks or bread, the nicely packaged food you buy at the supermarket is going to cost more. If you look closely, you can already see Mainers adapting to the harsh realities of the new energy era. Wood stoves are selling like hotcakes. Houses are being tightened up. Vegetable gardens are bigger this year. There’s a new mood across the land, and it reminds older folks of earlier times. And it wouldn’t be surprising, would it, if Maine’s steak-loving, non-hunting public begins to ponder the possibility of supplementing the family larder with some type of wild meat. Expect to see more deer hunters in the woods this November and busy classrooms in the prerequisite Hunter Safety Programs.

Health-wise, you can’t beat cooking wild. Venison, for example, is high in protein and significantly lower in caloric fat and cholesterol. There are other benefits, too. Noted wild-game chef Denny Corriveau, who made a guest appearance a few weeks ago on my radio program, drove the point home. “Wild game is to be enjoyed, to be savored and shared with those who are seeking quality that surpasses any food people have experienced,” said Corriveau. He added, “No salmonella, meat recalls, steroids or hormones to worry about; just pure protein that is lower in fat and cholesterol, helping you to live longer and enjoy life more fully.”

Not mentioned by Chef Corriveau is the side benefit that accrues to active hunters: exercise and fresh air.

By the way, Corriveau agrees that properly aging venison is the key to flavor and tenderness. Another respected outdoor cooking writer, John Cartier, had this to say about the value of aging wild meat:

Q. Is there any scientific evidence to prove that aging increases the tenderness of venison.

A. A study conducted by the food-technology department at Texas A&M University found that aging retards rigor mortis and extends it over a longer period of time. This process significantly increases the tenderness of venison taken from six study groups involving 30 whitetails. The research also found that aging increases the water-holding capacity of venison and causes the breakdown of muscle fibers. Both factors help increase tenderness. They prove without a doubt that aging definitely improves the quality of meat taken from any given animal.

There it is. One more time – the research also found that aging increases the water-holding capacity of venison and causes the breakdown of muscle fibers. Cartier goes on to point out that the best aging temperatures are from just above freezing to 38 degrees. Minimum aging time is 5 days, a week is best. Carter ages his critter by quartering it and placing it in an old refrigerator for a week.

Although I have not yet sampled them, Chef Corriveau is marketing a new line of seasoning blends. If they taste as good as they smell, they are sure to be a hit with wild game chefs. To learn more, or put a cooking question to Denny, contact him at [email protected]. His Web site is www.wildcheff.com.

V. Paul Reynolds is editor of the Northwoods Sporting Journal. He is also a Maine Guide, co-host of a weekly radio program “Maine Outdoors” heard Sundays at 7 p.m. on The Voice of Maine News-Talk Network (WVOM-FM 103.9, WCME-FM 96.7) and former information officer for the Maine Dept. of Fish and Wildlife. His e-mail address is [email protected].