For a good many eateries in the Lewiston-Auburn area, the sandwich — or sub or Italian or whatever you like to call it — is more than just meat and cheese on bread. It’s what keeps customers coming back year after year. Chances are, if you’ve grown up or lived in the area for a while, you’ve been to a few of those eateries. Four of them — Sam’s (Italian Foods) all across Maine, Luiggi’s Pizzeria in Lewiston, Georgio’s Pizza and Donut Shop in Auburn, and George’s Pizza in Auburn — are the local godfathers of the sandwich, because of their long histories and distinctive offerings.

The Italian, Fergy, U.F.O. and grinder, served by each restaurant respectively, are all delicious and are each their own sandwich. The Fergy (Luiggi’s) and U.F.O. (Georgio’s) were both inventions of their respective eatery, while the Italian (Sam’s) and grinder (George’s) were introduced to the area from eateries to the south.

For the history behind these classics, read on.

The Italian: In 1939, Sam Bennett founded Sam’s Italian Foods, making it the oldest of the four restaurants. General Manager Mike Marcus says that while Bennett didn’t create the Italian sandwich, it is unique to New England. At the time that Sam’s began offering ham Italians in their first location on Main Street in Lewiston, the sandwich was becoming popular around the Portland area.

Many people in the L-A area seem to love Sam’s version of this regional treat, which includes fresh-baked bread, sweet onions and a special oil blend along with a variety of meats, cheeses and freshly cut vegetables. Like with the other restaurants, fans of Sam’s Italians who have moved away are sometimes so ardent they will make sure they stop by one of Sam’s six locations in Maine for a sandwich whenever they visit.

“A lot of our customers who have moved out of state over the years, as soon as they come back to the state, one of the first things they do is pick up an Italian sandwich,” said Marcus. “We even have people who stop in right off the highway to pick up Italians before they head home.”

The secret to a great Italian? Fresh vegetables and, of course, Sam’s own rolls, which are made daily. “One of the keys to our product is the freshness of the rolls,” said Marcus.

The Fergy: Every once in a while a customer will inspire a new menu item. In the late ’60s that is exactly what happened at Luiggi’s in Lewiston. Then-owner Louis Talarico’s brother Frank and Frank’s friend, Lewiston police officer Arthur Ferguson, came up with a sandwich on sliced Italian bread with lettuce, a thick layer of mayonnaise, ham, cheese, tomatoes and onions. The Fergy was born.

“He (Ferguson) used to come in all the time and that’s how he wanted his sandwich, so they called it the Fergy,” said owner Beverly Derosier. “When he died, my brother and sister-in-law (Louis Talarico’s daughter) brought Fergies to the funeral home.”

Luiggi’s opened its doors in 1953, making it the second oldest of the four restaurants. It offers a variety of items including pizza, calzones and spaghetti, but Derosier says the Fergy remains one of their most popular menu items. A regular order comes as two sandwiches; diners with lighter appetites can order one.

“Another popular way to have it is toasted,” said Derosier. “A lot of people also like bacon added, and pickles.”

The sandwich’s ham, cheese and vegetables are sliced in house, and the bread is made fresh daily.

The U.F.O.: Georgio’s owner Margaret Hackett says that 30 years ago one of the shop’s former owners came up with the U.F.O. (Unbelievably Filling Object). That owner was Mike Willette, who said recently that he had been looking for a big sandwich to add to the restaurant’s menu in the early ’70s. He said he wanted it to be different, but taste good as well. The result: A large, round roll, toasted, with salami, ham, pepperoni, American and provolone cheeses, lettuce, mayonnaise, tomatoes, pickles and green peppers, but it can be made to order according to personal preference.

“I didn’t want it to be a run-of-the-mill sandwich,” said Willette, noting that the bread’s shape and the name of the sandwich were inspired by the craze over aliens and UFOs at the time. 

The Satellite was created when Willette received requests for smaller portions of the same sandwich. Hackett says she sells hundreds of U.F.O.s a day. While we were wrapping up the interview, an order for 14 of the popular sandwiches was called in. Employees of the many surrounding businesses on Minot Avenue in Auburn are a big part of the sandwich’s demand, Hackett said. 

“We make our own breads here, and that is basically the secret to the whole thing,” said Hackett. “The U.F.O. is pretty much our signature sandwich.”

Georgio’s is also known for their pizzas, donuts and pastries made fresh daily.

The grinder: A grinder is essentially a heated or toasted sub that’s packed with meat, veggies and cheese. In 1976, George Stamboules Sr. opened George’s on Center Street in Auburn, bringing the southern New England treat to Maine.

Son George Stamboules Jr., today a co-owner, says one difference people might notice between a grinder and a sub is the roll used; it’s crustier on the outside, perfect for toasting. The grinder also differs from a typical sub as it often contains more meat and fillings, and is most often oven-toasted.

“Everyone makes their grinders different,” said Stamboules. “My father had worked at several places in the early ’70s in Rhode Island, and owned another place, and this (George’s version of the grinder) was how they were made there.”

Stamboules says one of the most popular grinders they offer is the Italian grinder, made with ham, Genoa salami, provolone cheese, lettuce, tomatoes.

“They can be made with tuna, meatball, chicken Parmesan, salami, ham and sausage,” said Stamboules. “Really, the difference is the crusty roll that is toasted in the oven and the cold vegetables that are added on after; a bigger sandwich with extra meat.”

Though the restaurant is known for its pizza, Stamboules said they have a number of customers who, as soon as they walk through the door, are looking for hot oven grinders.

Some other popular sandwiches and where you can get them:

Coney Island Reuben: Heidi’s Brooklyn Deli, Turner Street, Auburn

Chicken salad sub: Union Street Market, Lewiston, or Jami K’s, Scribner Boulevard, Lewiston

# 9 (steak, cheese, green peppers, onions and mushrooms on a roll): D’Angelo’s, Center Street, Auburn, and Lisbon Street, Lewiston

Tuscan chicken hot panini: Holly’s Own Deli, Court Street, Auburn

Steak and cheese bomb: Lewiston House of Pizza, Lincoln Street, Lewiston

Big mouth (any sandwich fillings folded inside pizza shell, served cold): Za’s Pizza, Spring Street, Auburn

Got a favorite sandwich that’s not presented here? Spread the word by going to sunjournal/sandwich.com and leave a comment with this story.

Mike Marcus of Sam’s Italian Foods prepares one of their signature sandwiches the ham Italian.

Terry Roy prepares one of Luiggi’s most popular sandwiches the Fergie.

A grinder from George’s Pizza in Auburn

Georgio’s owner Margaret Hackett shows how to make their popular U.F.O. Sandwich.

Georgio’s U.F.O. sandwich which features three different kinds of meats and two different kinds of cheeses.

Next week: Looking for a easy, hearty, flavorful winter entree that you can impress the world — or at least the family — with? The chefs at Fuel offer Braised Pork Shank.