Sally Richards knows a thing or two about service. She worked as head waitress and was Jill-of-all-trades for 20-plus years at Bagels and Things restaurant in Auburn, where she brought a sunny personality, impeccable service and a familial presence to her job. So much so, in fact, that when her place of employment closed, customers swore they’d follow her wherever she went and encouraged her to open her own restaurant.

“Opening my own place had been my dream for a long time and everyone kept telling me to do it,” said Richards. So when the chance to take over a failing restaurant came her way, she took it. “I saw opportunity knocking,” she said.

In February of 2008, Richards and her husband, Wayne, opened the Center Street Cafe, located at 945 Center St. in Auburn. The cozy restaurant serves breakfast and lunch six days a week until two o’clock in the afternoon, and their menu features farm fresh produce from local supplier Blackie’s, homemade, made-to-order food items and a variety of coffee and tea choices from plain to pumpkin.

Busier at breakfast, the restaurant has become known for its supremely fluffy omelets chock full of fresh ingredients, which, according to Richards, makes all the difference when it comes to flavor. “It can’t be canned anything. You can really tell the difference,” she said.

To get the Center Street Cafe’s signature fluffiness in an omelet, head chef Shawn Floyd first whips purely eggs — no milk and no water as traditional recipes may call for — until it is just slightly frothy.

“If you go to a restaurant and the omelet comes out flat, that’s a sure sign that it’s been diluted with something,” explained Wayne Richards. “People don’t realize that the omelet will fluff up just with the egg.”

With the egg mixture to the side, Floyd adds the desired vegetables to a lightly oiled pan and sautes them until soft. “I want the customer to get a little bit of everything in each bite,” said Floyd of the amount of additional ingredients and vegetables he uses in creating each omelet.

He then pours the egg mixture directly into the pan holding the vegetables — no need for separate pans (and extra dishes). Pulling the sides gently away and letting the uncooked egg run to the bottom of the vegetables, he continues cooking on medium heat until all the egg is cooked, then flips it and adds the cheese. It’s only when the cheese is melted that he actually folds the omelet over into the customary half-moon.

“A lot of people fold (an omelet) over and put the stuff in the middle,” Richards said. “That irritates me.”

Although customers have a long list of flavor combinations to choose from, both on the posted blackboard against the far wall in the restaurant and inside the menu, the staff finds that the red pepper, spinach and feta omelet or the Western omelet (green peppers, ham, onion and cheese) are the most popular. But if you have a hankering for something a little different, don’t be shy to ask your server here. They are more than happy to oblige.

“They’re always willing, when I come up with a crazy idea, to try it and make it for me,” joked regular customer Elaine Tremaine, who once requested poached eggs atop a bowl of chili. “I’m out driving a (school) bus for three or four hours before I get here, so I have time to think and dream up crazy things, and I know it will always be very good.”

Center Street Cafe is open Tuesday through Sunday from 7 a.m. to 2 p.m.

Spinach, red pepper and feta omelet (Center Street Cafe style)

(If feta cheese isn’t your thing, you can substitute cheddar or another kind of cheese.)

Ingredients:

2 large eggs

Handful of baby spinach, washed and dried

Handful of red pepper, diced into bite-sized pieces

Feta cheese

Olive oil, enough to slightly coat bottom of pan

Directions:

Whip the eggs with a mixer until slightly frothy. In a medium pan, heat oil over medium heat and coat bottom of pan. Add spinach and peppers to oil and saute until spinach is wilted and peppers are soft (about one minute). Add whipped eggs to pan, pouring directly over vegetables. With a small spatula, frequently pull the egg away from the side of the pan and let uncooked egg run to the bottom of pan. Once all egg is cooked and there is no longer any liquid, flip. Sprinkle enough cheese to cover surface, as desired and let melt. Fold in half and plate. Serve with toast and home fries.

Center Street Cafe

945 Center St.

Auburn

(207) 795-7777

Hours: Tuesday – Sunday 7 a.m. – 2 p.m.