When people become interested in growing herbs, says Cindy Tibbetts, owner of Hummingbird Farm on Bean Street in Turner, “they just don’t know where to start. Most people are kind of lost.”

Whether she’s in one of her greenhouses, at a farmer’s market or making a presentation to a group, she says her most common question is always “Which herbs should I grow?” immediately followed by “How do you use them?”

Of course the “why” is obvious. The freshest taste possible of the herbs you want, in the quantity you want. The result: everything from delicious homemade pesto, to your own herbed oils and vinegars, and so savory-much-more. But first things first.

Little did Tibbetts know that I tend to undergo a bit of herb envy every summer. And that I fall into both categories: “not knowing where to start” and “kind of lost.” Tibbetts was happy to clear up my confusion, and I’m glad to share her pointers on how to become an herb grower, as well as on a few quick ways to spice up your cooking once your herbs are ready to pick.

Selection: First, she said, “I recommend you start with the ones you like. If you like pesto, grow a lot of basil.” Basil is her largest seller, either in seedling form or by fresh-cut bunches she sells at local farmers markets.

What should you try to grow from seed? “Cilantro!” Tibbetts, said. “Cilantro is really the only one.” It’s a quick-start herb. “And because it goes to seed so quickly, you should start your seeds at multiple intervals, so your harvesting can be staggered.”

Regarding other varieties, she added, “I’m always anxious to have fresh herbs in the spring, so I prefer to start with seedlings. If you tried to start basil from seed, you would lose eight weeks.” Parsley can be started from seed, but grows so slowly she recommends you start those seeds in February.

What about putting them together in the same pot? “The big thing to keep in mind when selecting herbs to grow in the same container is growth speed,” Tibbetts said. Using rosemary as an example, her second most popular herb, she recommends planting it in a pot by itself, because it is so very slow to grow. “Mint does not play well with other herbs, either,” she said, “because it grows fast and spreads quickly.” It can crowd out the other herbs in a container garden very easily. “Oregano is tricky, too, like mint,” she said. “I recommend growing oregano in containers so it won’t get unruly.”

What about the basics — sunlight, water and food? Look for a sunny spot: Most herbs like all the sun they can get. Water requirements vary quite a bit, Tibbetts said. “Mint, for instance, likes a lot of water; others, not so much. Herbs planted in the ground are fine as long as they get a top dressing of compost in the spring. Herbs in containers need more.” She recommends a liquid fertilizer every couple of weeks.

What can winter over? Some herbs can be brought inside to winter over, but Tibbetts oftentimes questions the effort. Rosemary might be the easiest. “The key to it is bright light and cool temperatures. An unheated room with lots of windows would be perfect. If it stays about 50 degrees, it would be perfect. If it gets too warm, the plant can get spindly, fall over and die,” she said. The idea is to let it go dormant for the winter, so don’t expect it to grow much. Basil can be kept alive, but it won’t produce much. You can put it back outdoors in the spring, and it will probably come back to life. It might become woody over time, she said.

Instead of trying to winter-over her basil, she prefers to dry it (gather up the stems in a big bunch, tie with string or a rubber band, and hang upside down to dry) or will mix up a big batch of pesto with her blender to freeze. In the fall, Tibbetts will also put a big bunch into a vase of water and keep it in the kitchen as long as it stays fresh.

Honoring herbs of the hour

Which leads us to the timeless herb classic — Pesto: “I had never made pesto until a couple years ago. And in about an hour, I’d made enough to last the winter,” said Tibbetts. “The part that takes the longest is washing your basil leaves and picking them off the stems.” She recommends you pat it dry with paper towels or give it a few whirls in a salad spinner.

She used to freeze the finished pesto in ice cube trays, but has since traded them in for cookie sheets covered with wax paper. She finds it neater and less messy. She drops 1/4-cup scoops of pesto onto the cookie sheet and freezes it. The next day, she places the little green, frozen discs into a zip-lock bag and stores then in the freezer until needed. She will thaw just one or two at a time, as needed, during the winter. “The best thing is you never would know it had been frozen.”

What’s new in the Tibbett’s world of herbs? Banana mint is a new addition to Hummingbird Farm’s herb offerings. “They’re low-growing and very pretty.” Tibbetts said they look great in hanging flower baskets. Since this flavor is new, she’s looking forward to experimenting with it. “That’s going to be a lot of fun.” She expects it will make a great tea herb. “It might make a fun mojito, too, and I plan to throw some into a fruit salad and see what happens,” she said.

Another popular herb lately is stevia, an herbal sweetener, one often used by diabetics. “You can use the leaves fresh or dried. It is very sweet — it is very concentrated. A tiny bit goes a long way,” said Tibbetts. In a pot of tea made with dried herbs, she will add only about 1/8th teaspoon of dried stevia to the pot.

“It’s easy to grow, but it takes a fair amount of water. It’s the first to wilt if gets too dry,” she said. It’s an annual, and likes to be warm. It will die off with the first hard frost. To dry stevia, take a bunch and tie it up with a rubber band as you would other herbs.

Tibbetts said it is great fresh or dried in beverages, and will add chopped fresh leaves to stewed rhubarb. “You cannot bake with it, though,” she added. “It will not take the place of sugar in a recipe.”

Heirs to honest herbs

Final advice: To savor your herb harvest all year long, go to www.sunjournal.com. There, Tibbetts shows how to make herbal vinegar with fresh herbs. Herbal vinegars can last for several months, she said, because the acidity of the vinegar prevents spoilage. Herbal oils — another great way to use your fresh herbs — “must be refrigerated and should be used fairly quickly,” she said.

Tibbetts has made available an extensive herbal reference library on her website — an excellent quick-reference source. She shares information on planning, choosing your herbs, planting, and sun and water recommendations, along with lots of details about individual herbs. Go to www.hummingbirdfarm.net.

Tibbetts, who works part-time at the Turner Public Library during the winter, began selling plants after her husband, Brian, came home with a 10-by-20-foot hand-me-down greenhouse. They now run the farm together. “We built the first big greenhouse in 1997.” They now have 2,000 square feet of greenhouse space. “It’s very small, as nurseries go. We’re the whole staff,” she laughed.

If you want to buy from Hummingbird Farm, plants can be ordered by mail. They’re shipped via USPS priority mail, Tibbetts said, getting them to most of the country in two to three days. “Speed is essential!” she said. “Before we started selling plants through our website, we spent two years researching and testing packaging and shipping, and we continue to refine our techniques every year. “

Herbed Pasta

Use whichever herbs you like — and have on hand — in this dish. Lemon balm or basil are great places to start. It’s quick and super-easy, too!

Pour 1/2 cup of olive oil into a skillet. Chop 3 or 4 cloves of garlic and add to oil. Chop 1/4-cup herb of your choice and add it to your pan. Turn the heat between low and medium heat and cook it just long enough to wilt whichever herb you’ve used. Pour it over cooked pasta, toss a little, sprinkle liberally with parmesan cheese and enjoy!

Cindy’s favorite use of rosemary

Place a few sprigs of rosemary in some warmed olive oil and let steep for several hours. Remove the rosemary and pour the olive oil into a shallow dish. Add freshly ground salt and/or black pepper, if you wish. Dip crusty bread in the olive oil and feast!

Basic Pesto

2 cups clean basil leaves (you can use all one variety or mixed varieties, according to your taste)

1/4-1/2 cup nuts. Pine nuts are traditional, but walnuts are a more economical substitute.

1/2 cup grated hard cheese such as parmesan or romano, or a blend.

5 to 8 cloves of garlic, according to your taste

Approximately 1/2 cup olive or other vegetable oil. The amount can vary depending on how much cheese and nuts you put in.

In a food processor or blender, add all ingredients and process until you have a smooth, well-mixed pesto. The consistency should be similar to that of mayonnaise. If the mix is too thick, add a little oil to thin it down. It won’t be perfectly smooth.

To preserve the pesto, fill ice cube trays with the mixture and freeze it over night. The next day, remove the pesto cubes and store them in a plastic bag or tub in the freezer. One cube is one serving. Or, use an ice cream scoop or a spoon to make uniform sized servings and place them on waxed paper on a cookie sheet. Again, freeze overnight and then bag them.

Cindy’s pesto variations

* Red Rubin pesto: Red Rubin is a red leafed variety of basil with a licorice-like flavor. Using it instead of traditional green basil gives a dark red pesto with a decidedly different flavor.

* Lemon Balm pesto: substitute lemon balm for half the basil. Substitute 2 tablespoons lemon juice for an equal amount of the oil.

* Sage Pesto: use 1 1/2 cups sage and 1/2 cup parsley in place of the basil.

* Mint pesto: 2 cups of mint leaves, 3 sprigs of lemon verbena and 2 sprigs of parsley in place of the basil. Add 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon of sugar if desired.

Also:

* Use almonds in place of pine nuts or walnuts.

* Try varying the cheese. Use a strong-flavored dry cheese or you are apt to end up with a mess!

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