Oh, 76 Pleasant Street, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways.

Yes, it sure is a rare day when I wax poetic, but the lovely evening and wonderful food last Saturday night at 76 Pleasant Street in Norway put stars in my eyes. Thus begins a new affair. I would love to share a few pleasantries about this delightful little restaurant:

No. 1. The two friendly and congenial hosts, Brett and Amy Baker. Transplanting themselves last summer from Lake Tahoe to Maine, they both come from long careers in the food and restaurant careers. They have both opened numerous restaurants over the years for other people, but when they opened 76 Pleasant Street last December, it was their first experience as owners. With a staff of merely three, they both wear many hats: from maintenance man and groundskeeper to prep cook for Brett; from general manager to wait staff for Amy.

No.2. Their clever and talented chef, Jeremy Donovan. A New Hampshire native, he has gained both experience and an excellent reputation cooking coast-to-coast. All meals are cooked to order, and his style and menu selections are varied, original and a little out of the usual. As an example, his current menu includes a “blanco” gazpacho — a nice twist on the traditional tomato version, topped with a beautiful tempura-coated soft-shell crab.

No.3. The crostini. I would love to swim in a small pool of these delicious appetizers. Because their menu changes with the seasons, crostini is usually one of several appetizer selections, with a variety of toppings. Last week’s were topped with fresh vegetables and an herbed cheese, lightly dribbled with tangy port wine syrup. Perched on top? The cutest little fried basil leaf you’ve ever seen. See No. 4 below.

No.4. Fried basil leaves. Used as a fancy little garnishment, the leaves are super-thin and translucent. Almost weightless, the bright green leaves almost dissolve instantly on your tongue. Light flavor; enjoyable effect.

No.5. Crab cakes. Beautifully formed, perfectly browned on the top and bottom — light and delicate in the center. Creatively served on a swirl of orange cardamom creme, paired artfully with a side of mango-jicama slaw. Donovan’s secret to a good crab cake, Amy said, is to not over-mix the crab mixture, so you don’t break up the lumps. “And make sure you get a good sear on both sides,” she added. The Bakers shared this recipe with readers — one of the very few items they actually make with a recipe. Most of their other dishes are creatively prepared free-style by the chef.

No.6. The gorgeous house. Unexpectedly located in a quiet, old residential neighborhood in Norway, the historic home was originally built in 1896 for Judge Williams Jones as a wedding gift. With a sweeping lawn and grand circular drive, it makes a large impression. After many months of interior renovation, the Bakers now use the original dining room and one of two front parlors as dining rooms. The other parlor has become a seating area, where wine or cocktails could be enjoyed while waiting for your table. The restaurant is small and seats only 24 at a time. The style is mostly antique and historic, with some modern touches mixed in.

No.7. The comfortable, casual-yet-elegant ambiance. White lights twisted around formal columns as you climb up the front steps, a tasteful collection of artwork scattered throughout, copper-topped dining tables and bistro-style chairs add a modern element to the otherwise formal establishment. Beautiful flower gardens outside add to the genteel experience. Soft jazz music played in the background, allowing easy conversation while muting those of fellow diners.

No.8. Food presentation. Serving his meals on simple white china, you can easily tell Donovan has fun turning his creations into works of art. Sauces, pestos or purees all complement the flavors of the dishes, while adding color and texture to the plates. Dramatic stacks of crunchy, little vegetable curlicues decorate the tops of many entrees.

No.9. The freshness and quality of the food served. “We buy as many local products as possible,” Brett said. They also grow most of their own herbs. “We keep an eye out for freshness, and an eye out for health,” Amy said. “Not too much butter or cream.” Saturday’s special was sesame-crusted swordfish with gingered eggplant, sticky rice and grilled ramps (wild leeks). “We are happy to accommodate special dietary needs, too,” Amy added, such as vegan, gluten-free or lactose intolerant. “There is no need to tell us in advance — Jeremy is quite adept at creating flavorful meals at a moment’s notice.”

No. 10. The culinary adventure. From roasted beet and pistachio nut salad to spider rolls (a type of sushi that includes fresh soft-shell crab and other ingredients rolled inside a sheet of nori), the food at 76 Pleasant is a bit unusual, but not so much as to scare off a more conservative guest. Last week’s menu included, among other dishes, a crisp duckling with hoisin glaze served with soba noodles; cast iron hanger steak seasoned with chimichurri (an Argentine sauce made of parsley and garlic, similar to a pesto); and local Atlantic scallops (their No. 1 seller) served with black bean risotto cake and tomatillo salsa. When asked to define their style, the Bakers were hard-pressed to come up with just one term. In spite of a few international flavors and condiments, they decided on “American cuisine.”

A 43-minute drive from Auburn, the restaurant is open Wednesday through Sunday, from 5 p.m. to closing. The menu can be viewed at www.76pleasantstreet.com. Recent entrees ranged from $18 to $23.

To see Chef Donovan create panko-encrusted soft-shell crab in summer gazpacho topped with lemon ricotta cream go to sunjournal.com.

Recipe

76 Pleasant Street Crab Cakes

1 pound fresh lump crab meat

1/3 cup diced red bell pepper

1/4 minced cilantro

1 cup panko bread crumbs

3/4 cup homemade or good quality mayo

Juice and zest of 1/2 lemon

A pinch curry powder

Salt & pepper to taste

2 ounces clarified butter

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a large bowl combine all of the above ingredients except butter.

Form into 3-ounce cakes. Heat a large oven-ready saute pan over medium-high heat. Add clarified butter to pan; when butter starts to shimmer, add the crab cakes. Sear on each side till crusty and brown, for about 2 minutes. Finish in oven for 3 to 5 minutes until heated through. Makes 12 cakes.

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