You’re the host of an upcoming dinner party, and you have everything finalized except for one thing, the wine list. Naturally, you’ll pair your salmon with white wine, right? That’s what you’ve always heard, anyway, and as the host you want to impress your guests.
So, what if you were told that salmon could be paired with a red?
For some, pairing foods and wines rises to an art form, but it doesn’t have to be complicated or scary. Susan Hall, owner of The Vault on Lisbon Street in Lewiston and a frequent consultant to customers planning their menus, says times and wines are changing. For example, a red wine can be simple and classic, daring and bold, or earthy. Red isn’t just “red” anymore.
Hall acknowledges wine pairing is a highly subjective process. Each person has their own unique preference for food and wine, so when it comes to pairing the “right” wine with the “right” food, there are no correct answers.
So should you throw out the old rules?
Not necessarily, says Hall, but don’t be afraid to break those rules once in a while because the results may surprise you. Growing up, she was taught red wine went with meats, white wines with fish. It was cut and dry. But after years of developing an appreciation for the depth and variety of today’s wines, Hall suggests individual pairings based on the type of event, your budget and even the method of food preparation.
Although the rule of red with meat, white with fish is still often followed, it fails to acknowledge the complexity of ingredients that make up a dish, as well as the wide range of wines available today. Instead, Hall says, think simple wine with simple food, and complex wine with complex food and consider matching delicate wines to delicate foods and more robust foods with a more robust wine. “Put like with like: A good rule of thumb when picking wine to drink with food is to consider the flavor, texture, aroma and how the food is prepared, says Hall.
Easy for a wine expert to say, but what does that mean to the rest of us?
For instance, if you are among those who will be feasting on the deep-fried version of turkey this Thanksgiving, seek out a wine that will highlight the ultra-moist bird. A traditional fried turkey with a chopped herbal rub would pair well with a semi-dry riesling or classic California chardonnay, Hall said, while a spicy Cajun fried turkey, a southern classic, may pair better with a gewurztraminer or a medium-bodied riesling. Hall reminds that sometimes it’s about just bending the rules.
An example for breaking the “white with fish” rule is to consider pairing dense fish like salmon, tuna and swordfish with a red wine. Whether it be grilled salmon or seared tuna, Hall’s pairing choice is a pinot noir. She suggests choosing the pinot noir based upon how the fish is prepared — lighter styles of pinot, like Burgundies from France, for more delicate preparations (steamed or baked), and bolder pinots from California to Oregon for the heartier preparations (grilled or seared).
As for your traditional Thanksgiving meal, replete with mashed potatoes, turkey, herb stuffing and all of the additional savory components (including sweet potatoes, squash, etc.) Hall recommends a 2010 Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone. “Made from 70 percent syrah (a strong red) and 30 percent grenache (a widely grown fruity red) with notes of roasted herbs, black cherry and a hint of spice, the Saint Esprit Cotes du Rhone is a tremendous value that pairs perfectly with game, stuffing and mixed grill,” Hall said.
Not yet ready to throw out the rules, but want to knowledgeably mix things up? There are always the experts to rely on.
Hall can offer accompaniments for any dish. This time of year, that means pairings for turkey, gravy, stuffing and even pumpkin pie. The most important piece to remember, according to Hall, is working with your ingredients and treating your wine as a main focal point of your meal and offering different options for your guests.
And what about champagne? It’s presence is a time-honored tradition during the holidays, but do you need to pop the expensive bubbly?
Halls, suggests sparkling wines; while bubbly in nature they offer that same feeling of celebration without breaking the bank. Typically she suggests a prosecco or moscato, both from Italy, a cava from Spain, or any sparkling wine from the U.S. Such options are a fraction of the cost of champagne, leaving more in the budget for your spread. and while sparkling wines are fine alone, they also lend themselves to creating exciting, affordable sparkling cocktails for your guests.
Hall’s love and knowledge of wine grew instinctively during her previous career with a software company that worked with the health care industry. While wining and dining clients — often ordering for the table — she acquired knowledge of wine and food pairing well beyond her years.
For Hall, entertaining with confidence became a big part of her job and imperative for her business success. When her company was sold to a Swiss outfitter and the opportunity to change careers opened, she answered an ad for a sales position with Martignetti, a large distributor of wine and spirits based in Massachusetts. From there, she found not only her passion, but her future.
Hall traveled throughout the world for Martignetti, and held wine broker and wine importer positions. Then, her husband took a job in Auburn and they moved. Hall dreamed of opening her own wine shop, but it wasn’t until the Westbrook native found a space on Lisbon Street that she identified a need for a shop that could offer customers knowledgeable advice about wine and decided she wanted to be part of the growing business environment in downtown Lewiston.
Today at The Vault, Hall offers a large selection of wines as well as premier craft beers. Just as importantly, she offers her knowledge of wine, through her wine tastings, events and wealth of advice. In addition, she can special order almost any wine.
Wine should be an extension of the dish that you create, says Hall. Viewing wine as an additional ingredient to your dish, and knowing how the food and wine interact, will give you more control of the experience of your meal.
Bon appetit!
Recipes and pairings
This first recipe is a great appetizer to offer when guests are arriving for Thanksgiving. The Gruet sparkling wine is light, refreshing and sets a celebratory tone for the gathering.
Potato pancakes with smoked salmon
Appetizer: serves 8
Pairing suggestions: If you are highlighting the smoked salmon a pinot noir is suggested. If you are highlighting the potato pancakes, a Gruet Blanc de Noirs sparkling wine is recommended.
Ingredients:
2 large baking potatoes peeled
Chopped scallions
1 egg
Coarse salt and ground black pepper
Olive oil
Thinly sliced smoked salmon
Sour cream
Chopped chives
Directions:
Combine potatoes, scallions and egg in food processor and grate.
Spoon grated potato mixture into bowl and season with salt and pepper
Heat olive oil in large saute pan and spoon 3 tablespoons of mixture for each pancake. Cook until golden brown turning frequently.
Lay pancakes out on platter and top each with slice of smoked salmon. Add topping of sour cream and a pinch of snipped chives.
Pumpkin pecan pie
Dessert: serves 8
Pairing suggestion: Otima 10-year tawny port. The port highlights the richness of the pecans and sweetness of the pumpkin.
Ingredients:
1 cup chopped pecans
1 cup whole pecans for garnish
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup canned pumpkin
1/2 stick melted butter
1 cup dark corn syrup
1/2 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 unbaked pie shell
Whipped cream
Directions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Using hand beater, beat eggs well. Add corn syrup, sugar, butter, pumpkin and vanilla until well blended. Place chopped pecans in bottom of pie shell. Carefully pour egg mixture over the chopped pecans. Bake for one hour or until knife inserted in center comes clean. Allow pie to cool completely and garnish with whole pecan pieces around edge. Top with whipped cream.



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