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Astronomical spring arrived in Maine at 10:46 a.m. on March 20. With 10 minutes to spare, backpack on my back and trekking poles in hand, I sign the register and strike off down the path, spending the last hurrah of winter skidding over the slippery bog bridges. By the time I reach the first trail junction a half-mile along, spring has officially sprung here in the wilds of the incomparable Cutler Coast Public Land unit.  

Patches of snow and ice have me thinking about the micro-spikes hanging on a hook in my gear closet at home. About then, I also realize I’ve forgotten to pack camp shoes. Oh well, so much for checking the packing list one last time. So it is every spring, it seems, for the first couple of backpacking trips. The fine tuning comes later, but for now, I’ll simply make do with what I have on this brief overnight trip. 

You can hear the roar of the ocean a good ways before you finally get there after a rolling 1 1/2 miles through the thick spruce, fir and birch forest. I drop my pack beneath the sign, “Scenic Overlook,” and scamper down and out onto the knife-edge clifftop. From this vantage point, much of the next section of the Coastal Trail, perhaps the most spectacular 3 1/2 miles of oceanfront walking in Maine, is clearly, boldly in view. 

There’s Long Point and Black Point, and hidden beyond, Fairy Head. Each of these locations sports a campsite, and in the case of the latter, three sites. All told, this is the only place in Maine where you can pitch your tent at a remote backcountry spot right along the Atlantic Ocean. Mine is the only name in the trailhead logbook today, so I should have my pick of campsites. There’s no reason to hurry, so I don’t.  

This shark’s fin of shale also affords a mighty fine look 13 miles across the Grand Manan Channel to the long profile of Grand Manan Island, part of New Brunswick. The island is 20 miles long and 11 miles wide, and the precipitous north coast (facing this way) features columnar basalt cliffs as high as 400 feet. I’ve heard there are great hiking trails on Grand Manan, and make a mental note yet again to plan a visit. 

Headlands and coves, cobble beaches and golden meadows pass in succession as I meander on. At several outlooks, I’m rewarded with views northward to what I’m pretty sure is Boot Head and then land’s end at Quoddy Head. Three enjoyable hours after stepping out, I arrive atop Fairy Head, my home for the evening. The orange tent goes up and the jumble of gear goes in, all protected from the big storm that is brewing. 

Campfires are prohibited in the fragile environs of the Cutler Coast, so I’m disappointed to find two fire rings at the site. I set about breaking apart the pits, scattering the rocks, filling in the holes and topping with natural cover. Satisfied, I glance at my phone and see that it’s pinging off a Canadian tower. I’m on Atlantic Time now, so happy hour will be early today! I fish out a sipper of bourbon and head for the rocks. 

It’s windy and cold on the ocean’s edge, but bundled in my puffy, I’m good. And so is the panorama. The view of Grand Manan is grand, while to my right there’s the historic Little River Light at the mouth of the Little River, which leads into Cutler’s pretty harbor. Recently, I learned you can stay overnight in the lightkeeper’s house, so I add that to the growing to-do list. The scene also includes Western Head; owned by the Maine Coast Heritage Trust, there’s a 3-mile hike there (must return) that’ll knock your hiking socks off. 

The forecasted heavy rain (and later, sleet and snow) finally arrives, so I retire to my little shelter for the night. There is hot soup and a simple dinner, a book to read, and the stormy sounds of nature to listen to, all while tucked into the downy comfort of my sleeping bag. Hiker happiness fills my heart. Tomorrow, I’ll hike back out, but for now, well, life on the Cutler Coast is sweet, and I’m going to revel in every precious moment. 

Carey Kish of Mount Desert Island is a Triple Crown hiker, freelance writer and author of three hiking guides. Connect with Carey on Facebook and Instagram and at [email protected].