Vast pools of water are forming in our circular dirt driveway. Mud season is here, particularly with the 50-degree days and tons of sunshine.

A few brave daffodils are trying to poke through the still-frozen and partially snow-covered beds, and I’m just dying to get my hands in the soil.

But since we’re in Zone 4 or, in the more southerly parts of the state, Zone 5, the time to plant isn’t for at least another seven or eight weeks, and then only for the very cold-hardy varieties.

To satisfy that almost primal urge to plant, I’m sowing several kinds of vegetables inside. Although window sills are OK for starting a few seedlings — as long as the pots are turned every single day to prevent leggy plants — the most success can be achieved by rigging up an inside device that includes grow lights.

We’ve constructed a 3-foot-by-5-foot contraption that will hold more than enough seedlings for transplanting to the garden at the end of May.

These inside growing devices can also be bought already to go.

Starting at least some seeds inside has many advantages, including a head start for when the soil is warm enough to set out the plants.

Although buying seedlings is easier, the variety just isn’t available in most greenhouses. Starting your own ensures that you’ll have that odd pepper or tomato you’ve always wanted to try, or several kinds of cabbage, onions or fresh greens.

Search the seed catalogs and local gardening stores for ideas.

Tomatoes, peppers, onions, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and egg plants inside are probably the most popular for starting indoors, and need the biggest head start, but sometimes I’ve started pumpkins, winter squash and gourds. And just so I’ll have my very own fresh greens really early, I’ve also started several kinds of lettuces and herbs.

Always put seeds directly into the garden for such vegetables as summer squash, radishes, corn, beans, peas and all root crops. Sunflowers also do not transplant well.

Starting Seedlings

For planting, use perlite, vermiculite, peat moss or a combination, or seed-starting soil mix. Sprinkle on more seeds than the number of plants wanted, then thin out later.

Use clean trays at least 2.5 to 3 inches deep. Lightly cover seeds with soil, moisten, then cover with plastic wrap and place trays in a warm place, such as the top of the refrigerator. When sprouts appear, anywhere from four to 12 days, depending on the type of vegetable sown, remove the plastic wrap and move the trays to the grow-light device.

New seedlings require 14 to 16 hours of light a day. This is the time to apply a little fertilizer and to water well. Place 40-watt fluorescent lights about three or four inches above the seedling trays. Raise the light as the seedlings grow.

Each vegetable takes a specific time to grow large and sturdy enough to plant in the garden. Always read the seed package for specific directions.

For example: tomatoes, cabbage and broccoli require seven or eight weeks, while eggplant and onions may need nine weeks, and winter squash and melons only three or four.

Hardening Off

This is a critical step in the success of a garden. Seedlings should never be taken from inside growing to planting in the garden the same day.

These tender seedlings need time to get used to the changes in temperature and light. Allow about two weeks to harden off the seedlings. Take them outside and place on a porch or some other sheltered area for about two hours a day, building the time up gradually. Also increase the number of hours they are exposed to the sun.

Planting

When ready to plant, place fertilizer in the furrows, sprinkle in a little soil, then plant the seedlings, allowing for the recommended spacing between each. Mound soil around the plants and water thoroughly.

To prevent cutworm damage, particularly on tiny tomato plants, I save up cardboard toilet paper or paper towel rolls, cut them into two- or three-inch lengths, and carefully surround the stems. This works very well in warding off cutworms.

Final thoughts

— Label all seeds grown inside, record the days until germination, the number of weeks they grow under a grow light and the date they are placed in the garden. This information will be useful for next year’s efforts.

— Some seeds need special treatment, such as parsley, which must be soaked for 24 hours before planting, or individual gourd seeds that must be nicked.

— March is also the time to think ahead about the plans for the produce that will be harvested in August and September. Some people talk to the organizers of food pantries and other places where fresh vegetables are distributed, to learn the types of vegetables preferred. Then they grow an extra row for them.

— Some people get together with their neighbors to learn who is planting what and which vegetables could be swapped during harvest season. I’ve traded many different vegetables I grow for those I don’t grow. Everyone benefits.

— Also, think of the recipes you might want to try and the vegetables that will be needed. And begin thinking of how the excess will be preserved for the winter months.

— Now is also the time to plan for fencing the garden, building a few more beds or expanding the traditional garden.

Although we can’t get into the actual garden right now (unless, of course, we shovel it off first), much can be done to prepare, and our soul is nourished.