A yellow onion almost defines the word “amenable.” When served raw, it has a sulfury bite that can really wake up the flavors in a recipe. But when cooked, its assertive flavor turns mellow, subtle and slightly sweet. This dual nature is why the yellow onion is a cornerstone of cuisines the world over.

Look for: an orb varying in diameter from 1 inch (boilers) to more than 4¼ inches (super-colossal) with dry, brownish-yellow skin. A few heirloom varieties, found occasionally in specialty stores or farmers markets, have a so-called “torpedo” shape and lovely flavor.

To extend shelf life, onions are “cured,” or thoroughly dried, before shipping. Onions that have been improperly cured or handled will be softer and, as a result, can develop squared-off faces or look like they’ve been squeezed, something known as “pack crush.”

Large onions, which tend to have a shorter storage life, hit the market first. Find yellow onions sold in bulk by the pound or in 2- to 5-pound mesh bags.

Yellow onions should be firm without any seams, which suggest a doubled bulb. Doubling mostly affects the amount of waste to be trimmed. The papery surface should be evident; it may be multilayered, and it’s OK if some layers seem loose or are molting off. If the onion’s yellowish surface is exposed, check closely for a translucent, water-soaked appearance. These layers develop a leathery texture, which cooking will not eliminate, so give this onion a pass. The root end may have some frayed hairs and specks of dried dirt. Check closely for decay if clods of dirt remain enmeshed in the roots.

You also should avoid any onion with gray mold or downy, blue-green mildew. Another indicator of poor quality is a slightly sticky skin, which tends to happen in onions brought too quickly out of storage, which allows condensation to build up. Sniff the onion; the aroma should be dusty and faint. Reject it if it has a bold aroma, sour scent or smells of mildew.

The blossom end may have a 2- to 3-inch remnant of the stem, and this is fine as long as it is completely dry. Pass on any onion that has a thickened mass at the stem end or a green sprout. Examine this end, too, for sponginess and the entire surface for soft spots or sunken divots, which indicate spoilage or dry texture.

When: Abundant from early September to December, with an excellent storage crop through early spring.

To store: Keep onions in a dry area with excellent air circulation. Closed plastic bags contain humidity, which encourages mold and sprouting. Refrigerator temperatures will do no harm, but only for a couple of days; beyond that, the onion’s outer layers will develop that water-soaked look.

Basic preparation: Tears may flow depending on your personal reaction to an onion’s sulfur content, which is concentrated in the inch or so around the root. To minimize your exposure, slice the onion perpendicular to the root an inch or so above it. Peel and prepare the remainder of the onion and, lastly, square off the area around the root so there is little waste and you get the smallest blast of sulfur.

Note that if you are serving the onion raw, soaking the slices in ice water for 30 minutes beforehand will eliminate some of its bite.