Raisin bran should be full of raisins, but it can also be full of surprises. Brands vary in nutrition, flakage and that crucial raisin-to-bran ratio.

Pioneers Kellogg’s ($3.79, 15 ounces) and Post ($3.79, 20 ounces) both contain 190 calories and 19 sugar grams (some by way of high-fructose corn syrup) per 1-cup serving, and a pleasing raisin distribution. Kellogg’s flakes are small and dark, Post’s large and light, and both hold up in milk. Post, however, beats Kellogg’s (and all the other contenders) in the fiber department, 8 grams to 7, and has plumper raisins and less salt and fat.

Wild Oats’ raisin bran ($3.36, 14 ounces) has smallish flakes that are a little too prone to wilt in milk. It is organic, though, made with cane, not corn, syrup, and is generous in the raisin department. One serving contains 170 calories, 15 grams sugar and 6 fiber grams.

Mom’s Best Naturals ($2.49, 22 ounces) has the most calories (230) and sugar (20 grams) and contains corn syrup. On the plus side, it’s all-natural, has no additives and 6 fiber grams. It tastes like the supermarket standbys and is our low-price leader.

Value is one thing; scrimping is another. Organic Cascadian Farms ($3.99, 14 ounces) has gorgeous, golden flakes and less sugar (14 grams), but a paucity of raisins along with its 180 calories and 6 fiber grams.

Not cheap, but totally organic, Erewhon ($4.29, 15 ounces) offers the sweetest, most tender raisins and the most intense bran. These aren’t flakes at all but wheat berries – bran and germ together in one crunchy package. It has 170 calories and 6 fiber grams per serving, and is the lowest in sodium (100 milligrams) and sugar (10 grams). Erewhon is not for the nursery school set. It’s serious – and seriously good.