My wife, Dianne, describes red leaf lettuces as edible equivalents of Depression-era glass bowls, which, in spite of their fragile beauty, she uses often for serving. Red leaf lettuces have their own distinct heritage, having descended from wild lettuces that have been eaten for thousands of years. And although not as familiar to consumers as other types of lettuce, they deserve a frequent presence at our summer table.

Basic red leaf varieties are mild and a little sweet. They can be found year-round in almost every supermarket, but in summer the heads are larger and more plentiful – as well as inexpensive. During the next few months you might see some more exotic varieties from local growers at farmers markets and produce stands.

The Lolla Rosa is one of these heritage varieties. Its short, broad leaves branch out from a narrow butt (as small as a quarter-inch) and end in delicate, frizzy tips. It appears in a broad range of reddish hues, from deep purple to near orange. Sprigs of Lolla Rosa are often used to gussy up bagged and bulk lettuce mixes. While its flavor is somewhat grassy, it makes up for it with its texture and appearance.

Another variety, red oak leaf, has leaves resembling those from an oak tree, albeit long and lanky with more rounded tips. Red oak lettuce has a deep-red matte finish with flat, thick leaves. Its rich, nutty flavor matches its husky texture, so it works well with a bold dressing and as a partner for grilled meats or shrimp.

Look for: Mature crisp leaves flare out from the root to form a head 4 to 16 inches in diameter, depending on the variety and time of year. At the top of the head is a red-tinted collar, which makes up 20 percent to 30 percent of the leaf area. The red fades to various shades of green closer to the root end. Some varieties have red speckles the length of the leaves.

It’s normal to find a thin, rusty crust of congealed sap where the end of the head was severed from the root, which is referred to as the butt. The center of the butt may be punky or even gelatinous, but this is OK. Examine the leaf tips; they should be free of frayed or black edges, both signs of age or poor handling. Gently pry open the leaves so you can see if there’s slime in the center. During hot weather, the plant can bolt (go quickly to seed) and a hard stem begins to form in the center of the leaves. This mainly affects the usable quantity of lettuce and does not affect flavor.

To store: Remove any twist tie. Grasp the leaves in one hand, hold the butt in the other and use a wringing motion to sever the leaves. Rinse whole leaves in cold water and thoroughly drain (do not spin dry because you’ll bruise the leaves and they’ll deteriorate faster). While still damp, layer leaves with paper towels until you have three to four layers. Top with a paper towel, loosely roll into a bundle and place in a plastic bag; the lettuce should hold for a week in the refrigerator. Be sure to store lettuce separately from apples, bananas and pears; the ethylene gas the fruit emits can turn lettuce brown.

Basic preparation: Damp dry the leaves you want to use and tear or cut them into bite-size pieces. There is sufficient difference between varieties to make a red leaf salad in which each type is identifiable.