Cabbage Island Clambakes
Seasonal Escapes August 2005
Classic Down East clambake
Delicious meal awaits at when boat docks at Cabbage Island
We are going on a real Down East clambake! The trip starts with a boat ride on the Argo, out of Boothbay Harbor, to Cabbage Island in Linekin Bay for a lobster feast. This has long been on my wish list of things to do.
My Aunt Martha, one of my girls and I make our reservation and gather a few items for our adventure: a sweatshirt, windbreaker and sunglasses. We also bring sunscreen and bug repellent, but find we don’t need these. We could actually even have used a blanket.
Our day arrived, unusually cool and foggy by the water. The usual crowds are somewhat smaller with the less-than-ideal weather. It is midweek, and we easily find a parking spot in the municipal lot.
Knowing that our luncheon feast will be served between 1:30 and 2 p.m., we begin to seek out a cup of coffee and snack to tide us over. We are disappointed to find that the little bakery in the pink building is closed. But when my daughter spots a café sign, we hurry to the Upper Deck Café. On the way up the stairs, I notice the menu board and see that grilled muffins, one of my favorites, are listed. When we look at the varied listings inside, we all order the giant blueberry muffins. What a treat! We enjoy the coziness, the company and the view. We linger over coffee and conversation, then finally head over to pick up our tickets. We’re surprised to find a waiting line and that the seats are sold out, making us glad we made reservations.
The Argo is scheduled to leave at 12:30, but we begin boarding at 12:10 p.m. Since we’re near the end of the line, we must sit upstairs. Even wearing both of my jackets, I’m cold on the journey to Cabbage Island. The return trip, thanks to the sun breaking out, is more comfortable. The cold brings our shipmates together though, all are talking about being cold and sharing jackets to use for blankets.
This is a narrated tour so we do get a running commentary on what is around us, even though sometimes we cannot see through the thick fog. Again I am happy my fellow passengers seem in good spirits, commenting on how this is just how the Maine coast is, often enshrouded in fog.
We pass several islands, including Burnt and Squirrel. At one point, three lighthouses are visible, with Burnt at our left, Ram in front and Cuckolds to our right. We pass very near Burnt Island Lighthouse, noting for the future that the lighthouse is open to the public.
We watched cormorants hang out their wings like wet laundry, a seal dive off the rocks and another swimming, and we see an osprey in its nest.
As soon as the island appeared out of the fog, we can also see billowing steam rising from the huge seaside ovens. There is a sign welcoming us to Cabbage Island; a great picture for your trip scrapbook.
Staff come out to greet the boat. I note the seaweed-covered rocks visible along the shore since the tide is low. I am reminded that this is how our wonderful meal is prepared, using seaweed for steaming. The group sounds happy as we are led to the lodge to start our lunch, and warm up.
The lodge has picnic tables out front, under cover in a porch and indoors for when the weather is iffy. The lodge is very comfortable, with a relaxed homey feel. The gorgeous, colorful flowerbeds are a beautiful addition.
A cup of hot, delicious fish chowder is served when the first bell is rung. We happily reach for the oyster crackers heaped in the middle of the table. Dining is casual, with a picnic atmosphere. Picture yourself at a family gathering on a porch, plastic tablecloths neatly on the tables, disposables used for the chowder and drinks. You have a choice of hot coffee or iced tea. When the second bell sounds, you get up and join the serving line at the ovens. Serving time is an all-hands-on-deck affair with trays heaped assembly-style, then handed to the next in line.
The dinner! Your platter is heaped with two beautiful red lobsters, a foil package of clams, potato, onion, an egg and corn on the cob. For non-seafood lovers, chicken is an option. The corn was rather tough, but everything else was delicious. Save room for the huge piece of blueberry cake served for dessert. You may have part of your meal packed to go home, and many of our shipmates said they’d enjoy the second half later when they got home. Aunt Martha made two snacks of her piece of cake.
My daughter said her favorite part of the trip was seeing the seals. She really enjoyed the feeling of being a part of something Mainers have been doing for years, like a scene in the movie “Carousel” by Rodgers and Hammerstein.
She also loved the parting of the mist as we rolled across the ocean, seeing things looming out of the fog. What looks like a dark cloud on the horizon, slowly becomes a tree line, then an island.
Cabbage Island has had public clambakes since 1956. The clambakes are currently operated by the Moore family, a very hospitable bunch.
Besides the meal, other activities for visitors to the island include: fishing from the dock, horseshoes, volleyball, badminton, walking and exploring the oceanside trails over the more than four-acre island. I must say we lingered over our delicious meal so long, and were near the end of those served, that we just sat and enjoyed the view, thankful that the weather had cleared so we could actually see across the water.
As we pulled out, I noticed the staff again working as a team, cleaning up and washing the trays. They have quite a job of it to take care of so many guests. We started with a great bunch of visitors, already singing on the way over, first “Row, row, row your boat” when the boat tipped a little to starboard in a turn. Then a lady in the front raised her patriotic tote bag and was joined by a rousing rendition of “God Bless America.” I do not think I will ever forget the sight of that flag against the heavy dark clouds. I would say the jovial atmosphere on the return ride only increased, since folks had enjoyed themselves thoroughly. That’s a tribute to the staff.
Start a tradition and hop aboard the Argo passenger ferry out of Boothbay Harbor. Just as in the famous Rodgers and Hammerstein song, “Real Nice Clambake,” we all had a real good time.
Clambakes are available rain or shine. So be aware that the upper deck of the Argo is not covered, and do plan ahead with rain gear if the weather indicates.
Schedule: The Argo departs from Pier 6 at Fisherman’s Wharf in Boothbay Harbor Monday through Friday at 12:30 p.m. and returns at 4:30 p.m. On Saturday, the Argo leaves at 12:30 and returns at 4:30, or then leaves for a second trip at 5 p.m. and returns by dark. On Sundays, departure is at 11:30, with the return at 3 p.m., or departure at 1:30 with a return by 5 p.m. The narrated tour out takes a leisurely hour; the direct return trip is 30 minutes. The schedule runs through Labor Day.
For reservations and more information, contact Cabbage Island Clambakes at www.cabbageislandclambakes.com or call (207) 633-7200.
Getting there: Take Route 27 through Boothbay, pass the Common on your left. Be aware that in Boothbay Harbor the road becomes one-way. You need to circle counterclockwise.
Parking: There are quite a few parking lots available, and on-street parking as you can find it. We always drive around looking for the best deal: This trip we parked in the municipal lot on Todd Avenue, perpendicular to the town dock, or waterfront. The fee is $1 per hour. This lot now has a new ticket system, where you punch into a machine your expected length of stay, pay, then get a printout of time in and out. Allow a little more time than you think you will need. I wanted to add an hour or two after getting my receipt, but if you put in more money, you would pay twice for the same first hour. As it was, we hurried back off the boat, so that we could enjoy a little more time downtown to get the traditional fudge for those who were not able to join us.
Walking maps are available all over town, and include locations to park, or park and ride the trolley. Or stop at the Boothbay Harbor Region Chamber of Commerce on Route 1 across from the Meadow Mall. For information, call (207) 633-2353 or go to www.boothbayharbor.com.
Upper Deck Café is at 4 Bridge St., near the footbridge in Boothbay Harbor, (207) 633-7447. This yummy find serves breakfast and lunch.
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