Sea kayaking in the fog can be simultaneously exhilarating and intimidating.
There is an eerie awareness of solitude and vulnerability when paddling in the soupy haze. Often, the fog is so thick that just keeping your paddling companions in sight is difficult. Even in an area where islands are numerous, such as the Deer Isle archipelago, there is no visible land, and paddlers are totally dependent upon their navigation skills. Yet, there is an heightened sense of excitement, anticipation and challenge.
When strong currents, heavy boat traffic, large ocean swells, open water crossings or rocky coastlines are added to the mix, kayakers are confronted with a stimulating and engaging paddling experience. Recently, during a sea kayaking trip in the Deer Isle area, kayakers encountered all of these obstacles.
The Deer Isle archipelago is perhaps the best known paddling destination on the East Coast. It provides a plethora of outstanding kayaking opportunities in a beautiful and historic coastal setting.
There are at least 65 islands of varying sizes that constitute the archipelago, and some are only a few of hundred yards apart. Many of them are state-owned, and camping and exploration are permitted. The abundance of islands spaced close together provides an unusually protected environment for kayakers. Paddlers can island hop several miles out into Penobscot Bay without any long exposed crossings. A 12-mile trip from Stonington to the southern tip of Isle au Haut in the outer bay can be accomplished with no crossing exceeding a mile and a half.
Granite quarries
Most of the glacially rounded islands in this area were part of the historic granite industry that flourished in the late 19th and early 20th century. Many have granite quarries, the remains of old stone wharves and piles of abandoned cut stones. Perhaps the most interesting is Crotch Island, which is located a mile southeast of Stonington. Here, small mountains of discarded stones can be observed, while kayaking along the shore.
Some of America’s most prestigious buildings and monuments were constructed with its renowned pink granite. Prehistoric American Indians have also left their mark on the island in the form of ancient shell middens.
It is possible to launch sea kayaks from the town landing in Stonington. However, the downtown area is frequently congested, and parking is problematic.
A better choice is the Old Quarry Campground, which is located a couple of miles northeast on Buckmaster Neck. It provides camping, parking and has a convenient launching area on Webb Cove. It also offers showers, laundry facilities and features a small store with maps and paddling gear. There is an interesting hiking trail nearby in Settlement Quarry Park and the campground conducts kayak trips and lessons. To obtain more information on the Old Quarry Campground, access their Web site at www.oldquarry.com or call them at (207) 367-8977.
During a recent trip to the area, seven of us explored the archipelago in three tandem kayaks and one solo. There are several benefits to tandem kayaks. They are generally faster, since they are longer and propelled by two paddlers. They also tend to have greater stability. Finally, they provide an opportunity for kayakers with less experience or stamina to more safely enjoy an ocean adventure.
Navigating in fog
Besides being a kayaking paradise, the island area off the coast of Deer Isle is notorious for the prevalence of fog. It was pervasive from the outset. Fog necessitates carefully plotted courses, and group members should have strong navigation and orientation skills. Each boat should have a map and compass. A GPS is also advisable. Most important, all participants should be completely cognizant of the group plan and direction of travel. Under normal circumstances, members of a sea kayak trip should stay close together. However, that is absolutely essential in the fog.
For four days, our group kayaked and explored the archipelago. Leaving Webb Cove, we paddled southeasterly past Grog Island and then southerly between Camp and Devil Islands.
A fog bank approached from the south and enveloped us. Relying exclusively on our maps and compasses, we negotiated past Coombs, Bare and Ram Islands and along the east side of McGathery Island. Despite the limited visibility, we could identify Gooseberry Island, which is less than a half mile to the south and east of McGathery.
From Gooseberry, we determined that holding a southerly course for about a mile and a half would bring us to the islands just north of Isle au Haut.
Staying together
Within minutes of departing, we lost all sight of land. As we carefully watched our compasses to ensure that we continued in the right direction, we paddled close together for safety purposes. This had the dual benefit of making it easier for motorized boats to spot us and helped prevent anyone from getting lost.
We also kept our emergency horns, whistles and lights available. The crossing went without incident. After about 30 minutes, we spotted tiny Wheat Island, which is due north of Burnt Island and Isle au Haut. Wheat Island has two excellent Maine Island Trail Association (MITA) campsites.
On our second day, we paddled along the western side of Isle au Haut. As we navigated around Western Ear at the southwestern tip, we encountered very thick fog and large swells from the south. The south end of the island is pockmarked with offshore ledges and cliffs that make it difficult to land. After negotiating around waves crashing on ledges in a clouded blur for about a mile, we determined that the conditions were too dangerous, and we returned to camp. We completed the nearly 20-mile circumnavigation of Isle au Haut on our third day in partially foggy conditions with some sunny breaks.
Our final day of paddling brought us more fog and windier conditions. We again had to complete an open-water crossing without visible land. However, a tailwind and a favorable tide pushed us along quickly, and we arrived exactly as planned just off the southeastern end of McGathery Island.
We then paddled north between McGathery and Round Islands and through a narrow channel between the two Coombs Islands. At this point, the fog bank moved off to our east and about a dozen islands appeared. For the first time during our trip, we could fully appreciate the beauty of the area.
The Deer Isle archipelago offers a host of different paddling options. Day trips can be easily completed from the campground or multi-day expeditions such as ours can be arranged by camping at the several MITA campsites in the area. It is also possible to camp at Duck Harbor in Acadia National Park on Isle au Haut by making reservations with the National Park Service. For more information on MITA and its campsites, access its Web site at www.mita.org.
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