From the highway, the Cathance River appears to be a docile, meandering coastal stream. It originates in the town of Bowdoin and then wanders circuitously through fields and wooded areas in Topsham before emptying into Merrymeeting Bay in Bowdoinham.
But hidden from view in a remote section of Topsham are about two-and-half miles of cataracts and challenging whitewater rapids.
About 25 years ago, the whitewater boating community “discovered” this little paddling paradise. Ever since, it’s been an integral part of the annual whitewater experience for local boaters. The American Whitewater Association describes it as a Class III/IV creek run with two Class V waterfalls. Unlike most of the outstanding creek runs in Maine, which are several hours away in the more mountainous areas, the Cathance is a mere half-hour drive from Augusta, Lewiston or Portland. Even better for me, it’s my hometown river.
Proximity and exciting rapids are not the only benefits of the Cathance. Because it has a fairly large watershed for a small river, the water levels rise fairly fast and tend to remain high longer than most similar-sized streams. It’s not unusual for it to be runnable throughout the spring and then for several days after a good soaking rain during the summer and fall. As a result, it is frequently one of the last whitewater runs of the year.
This fall was no exception.
The put-in and takeout for the whitewater run on the Cathance are both in Topsham. To reach the put-in, drive east on Route 196 from the junction of Interstate 295 for about a half-mile to Route 201. Then travel north on 201 for about a mile and take the last right turn before the 295 overpass and follow it to the end. There is a short, unpaved boat landing to the left of a mobile home park. The takeout can be reached by returning to Route 196 and going east for about a mile to Route 24. Follow Route 24, which is also the Middlesex Road, east for about two miles to the Cathance Road on the left. The takeout is about two miles in on the left just past the bridge over the river.
There is a river gauge on a cement bridge abutment on the opposite side of the river at the put-in. Generally, the whitewater section is runnable when the water level is over 1.75 feet or under 4.00 feet on the gauge. It is possible to run this section at higher levels, but the character of the river changes quite dramatically at high water, and extreme caution should be exercised.
I was joined for a recent run on the Cathance by friends Randy Berube of Lisbon and John Brower of Rome. The level was 4.10 on the gauge. Since we had all previously paddled the river at high levels, we felt confident that we could safely run it – if we thoroughly scouted each rapid and by “setting up throw bags” whenever necessary. Setting up throw bags is an important part of river safety. It is accomplished by having one or more paddlers positioned with a throw bag strategically along the shore near danger spots on a rapid. A throw bag is a lightly weighted cloth bag that contains a length of rope that can be used to rescue a
paddler. The weighted end is thrown to the swimmer and he or she is then pulled ashore.
The Cathance is a challenging river at virtually any water level and should not be attempted without advanced paddling skills. It should not be paddled alone and extra safety precautions should be taken on most rapids. The Cathance rapids are notorious for collecting debris and strainers (trees and brancheslodged in rapids), and several of the drops cannot be fully observed from the water. I recommend that all of the major rapids be scouted from the shore, and that throw bags be set up.
A creek boat, which is a high volume kayak designed specifically for paddling steep whitewater, is preferable, but not essential for running the Cathance. Randy used his creek boat, and I paddled my Dagger RPM, which is a downriver boat with a low volume bow and stern. John is a canoeist and paddled a Mad River Outrage, which is a relatively short and maneuverable “open boat.” It is outfitted with floatation and ideally suited for the steep rapids of the Cathance.
It is a short mile of flatwater paddling past the mobile home park, along Interstate 295 and through a swampy wooded area to the first rapid. Then the river narrows, takes on a gorge like appearance and the rapids begin. Just beyond a low hanging snowmobile bridge is the first difficult rapid. It should normally be scouted on the left, as it often contains strainers that can’t be seen at river level. This rapid can be run several different ways, depending on the water level and whether or not strainers are present. It is followed by a couple of somewhat easier rapids which can usually be boat scouted.
The first cataract is next, and it should definitely be scouted on the right, as the paddler can only see a horizon line. The usual run is to start left and drive hard to the right to avoid exposed rocks and a nasty hole. Going too far right can also be hazardous, as there are rocks just below the surface that have pinned boaters. There is another fairly steep falls just down river that turns to the left and tumbles over a ledge with a rock pile at the bottom. Except at low water, the rock pile can usually be avoided by starting left center and paddling aggressively to the far left.
After a short flatwater section, the river turns to the right and enters a gorge. This is the beginning of the Class V falls known as Magic Carpet Ride, or more charmingly, Little Gorilla. There are several good reasons why this rapid is rated a Class V. It drops about 20 feet in a little over 15 yards, and there is a protruding ledge that extends out from the left and a wide sticky hole at the bottom with rocks just below the surface a few feet downstream. The rapid begins near the top of the narrow gorge, then makes an almost a 90 degree turn to the left and pitches steeply down a shallow rock slide to the waiting hole at the bottom. Before deciding to run this drop, scout it thoroughly from the right and set up a throw bag. Don’t be ashamed to pick up your boat and walk around it. There is a good portage trail on the right that I’ve helped pack down.
Just around the corner and to the right is the final drop. It’s a longer, straighter and somewhat safer, but a more technical version of Little Gorilla. It should be scouted on the right and a throw bag set up near the wide hole at the bottom. This hole can completely stop a boat and has caused many unplanned swims. The falls is normally run by starting right, powering towards the left through a couple of small holes, bouncing down a steep, shallow ledge and punching the hole at the bottom as far right as possible.
It is about another a mile of flatwater to the takeout above the bridge on the left. This is private property, and boaters should quickly carry their boats to the road. Vehicles should be parked beside the road about a 100 feet up and not in the parking lot, which is for the landowner’s tenants. Do not paddle beyond the bridge, as there is a vertical waterfall with a shallow, rocky pool just below.
The Cathance River watershed is a multi-purpose recreational area. It is possible to launch boats at the whitewater put-in and paddle or motor upstream to fish, duck hunt, bird or just enjoy a pleasant paddle in the gentle current. It is tidal below the falls at the takeout and this section is a popular sea kayak trip from Bowdoinham or Merrymeeting Bay.
Recently, the nonprofit organization Cathance River Education Alliance (CREA) was formed. Its stated purpose is “to encourage and sponsor environmental, historical and cultural appreciation and enjoyment of the Cathance River watershed.” It was responsible for the construction of a hiking trail that parallels the river near the whitewater section. More information can be obtained about CREA by accessing their Web site at www.creamaine.org.
Comments are no longer available on this story