Sea kayaking is a relatively new sport for my wife, Nancy, and me. Just two years ago, we purchased a pair of solo kayaks; since then, we have enjoyed them immensely.

This particular day, Nancy was unable to paddle, and I was joined by two close friends, Ken and Susan Gordon of Auburn. Both are longtime paddlers, and they have been our sea kayaking mentors. They were paddling a tandem fiberglass kayak, and I used Ken’s solo fiberglass boat.

If you purchase a sea kayak, the choice will usually be fiberglass or plastic. Fiberglass boats are normally faster, lighter and more expensive.

Conversely, plastic is usually slower, heavier and less expensive, but more durable. Many kayakers also build their own sea kayaks from wood.

Nancy and I have two plastic solo 17-foot Perception Shadows, and our choice was driven primarily by cost. Their durability was also a consideration. Prior to buying a sea kayak, I recommend trying out several different models and getting expert advice that considers your body size and anticipated paddling goals.

Safety first

Cool or cold coastal waters and ever-changing weather conditions can quickly turn a pleasant outing into a dangerous situation.

Professional instruction, with an emphasis on safety and rescue techniques, is an essential first step. Paddlers should always be sure to wear clothing that is suitable for the conditions, and carry all necessary equipment, including a spare paddle, bailer, paddle float, compass, map, flares, emergency light, water, food and extra clothing. Be sure to take and use headgear, dark glasses and sunscreen. Always wear a life jacket.

This trip also had a secondary purpose for Ken and me, as we will soon be heading out on a five-week sea kayaking trip. This was something of a field test. Ken wanted to practice using his new GPS, and I wanted to get some experience paddling his Cadence LP sea kayak, which I will be using on the trip. Since we didn’t get lost, it’s a good sign that Ken has mastered the GPS. The jury is still out on my paddling skills.

We began our paddle in the picturesque fishing village of Cundy’s Harbor, which is about 12 miles southeast of Brunswick. To reach Cundy’s Harbor, take Route 24 south from Route 1 in Cooks Corner in Brunswick, and travel about six miles to the Cundy’s Harbor Road on the left. Follow that road for about five or six miles to the northern outskirts of the village. A public landing is located at the end of the only significant left turn before you enter town. The landing is unmarked, not obvious, and in the midst of a residential area. There is limited parking. Be sure to respect the rights of the local property owners, and do not to block driveways or rights of way. If you have any uncertainty about parking or where to put-in, check with someone in the area.

It was cloudy, and there was a light to moderate wind blowing from the northeast as we headed southeast out of the harbor. We paddled across the lower New Meadows River and around the northern end of Bear Island.

Worth the trip

It was worth the paddle just to visit the historically controversial Malaga Island.

As we approached from the north, we passed the remains of a sunken fishing vessel, and then spotted several stacks of lobster traps stored by local lobstermen on the northern end of the island. Just inland from the traps is a large, painted sign memorializing the people who had lived on Malaga. Otherwise, there were no apparent signs of life on this once turbulent island.

Once known as Scandal Island, this tiny, half-mile long island just off the coast of Sebasco, is now privately owned and protected from development by the Maine Coast Heritage Trust.

It was settled in the mid-1800s by a mixed racial group that included slaves (or former slaves), American Indians and others. They inhabited this small island for about 50 years, subsisting by primitive farming, fishing and trading with locals on the mainland. Based on my research, it is difficult to separate the truth about their existence from the rumors and apparent prejudices that flourished at the time. Certainly, the fact that many of them were people of color in an environment that was otherwise overwhelmingly white, affected perceptions of them. However, there probably was an element of truth to the reports of squalid living conditions and questionable social behavior.

In the early 1900s, both local and state governments made some attempts to educate and improve the standard of living of the Malagoites. However, limited success with these efforts and conflicts with the local population led to drastic measures. In 1912, the State of Maine evicted all 56 inhabitants, who were technically squatters, simultaneously exhuming all of their buried dead and burning their ramshackle huts. Many were reportedly committed to an institution for the “feeble minded” in Pownal, and others are believed to have literally floated around the coastal area on makeshift rafts in futile attempts to find permanent refuge. It was a sad chapter in our state history. I obtained many of the details of the history of Malaga from The Maine Coast Guide Web site at coastguides.com.

Paddling through the shallow waters between Bear and Malaga Islands, we observed that Malaga is now almost completely tree-covered and desolate in appearance. It did not look like a quality place to live, and we were left with the impression that those who had lived there must have been quite desperate for a place to call home. There is a tiny cove on the southeast shore and exposed rock extends out from the south end of the island at low tide.

We then rode the outgoing tide south along the west shore of the Phippsburg peninsula and the east end of Casco Bay. Passing Harbor and Burnt Coat islands, we reached the islands in the West Point area after about an hour-and-a-half of paddling. The trip was a good choice for this particular day, as we had substantial protection from the northeast winds while traveling generally southeast, keeping the islands and the mainland to our immediate east. Our timing was excellent, as we had the tide with us for part of our return trip.

Wild is the wind

Tides and wind speed and direction are major considerations when making a decision to sea kayak. There are a number of sources available to determine tidal information. My favorite is the Web site stripersonline.com. I generally consult the local weather or the Weather Channel to determine wind speed and direction. Paddlers should always be wary when there are heavy winds or small craft advisories. Special care should be exercised when paddling in winds that are blowing offshore. Remember, it will be much more difficult to paddle against those winds when you return.

On our return trip, the clouds dissipated and we had sunny skies and the winds changed to onshore. We again paddled between Malaga and Bear Islands, but this time we stopped on the north end to more closely inspect the memorial sign. The island is not posted, so I assumed that foot traffic was permissible. However, since this is private property, visitors should be sure to leave the island undisturbed in every respect.

Leaving Malaga, we re-crossed the outer New Meadows River and entered back into Cundy’s Harbor. This provided us with an outstanding view of this quintessential Maine fishing village. We were also entertained by a pod of seals that were playfully frolicking on a small, rocky island just off the shore. It had been a near perfect afternoon of paddling, coupled with a vicarious glance back in time at some of the tumultuous history of the area.