Often in summer this space is devoted to playing golf in places known more for skiing. The weekend before Christmas we were skiing in a place more recognized for golf.

Coeur d’Alene is famous for the floating green, a target that can be moved on cables from a wedge shot to a 3-iron or 5-wood. Most of us have seen that hole on TV or in magazines. But not far away are a couple of ski mountains that make this Northern Idaho region a destination for skiers.

The entry airport is Spokane, Wash., about forty minutes west of the resort. Coeur d’Alene Resort is a full service hotel on the lake, which gives the town its name and the lake plays a key role in seasonal festivities. We were impressed by the extensive and varied display of lights as we approached the hotel, but it was nothing compared to what we would see from the water on our last night.

The city of 35,000 extends right down to the shore, which runs south 25 miles. A marina filled with boats, and docks with a half-dozen cruise boats demonstrate that this is a summer destination. We learned that the lake doesn’t freeze due to average daytime temperatures in the mid thirties – even in December and January. That was a surprise in a city located just over 100 miles from the Canadian border, but we appreciated it the next day on the slopes.

Our first day of skiing was at Silver Mountain, about 35-40 minutes east on I-90. Approaching along the Interstate the trails are visible on the 6,300 foot summit, but none on the lower mountain. On arrival we learned why. When the area opened in 1967, skiers traveled a long winding logging road to reach the base of the area more than 1,500 feet above the valley floor. Reflecting the region’s colorful silver mining history, the area was first known as Jackass Mountain. That changed to Silverhorn in 1970 and to Silver Mountain in 1989. In 1990 a gondola was installed to carry skiers up to the Mountain Haus, a day lodge 600 feet below the summit. From there lifts extend up to the top of Kellog Peak. There are trails above and below the lodge with a total of 2,200 feet of vertical.

Once on the upper mountain, skiers find a quad chair, two triples and two doubles to move around the area. The mix of runs includes a few novice runs near the Mountain Haus and a wide variety of trails, glades and some open bowl skiing spread over 1,500 acres. Future plans call for running trails and lifts down the mountain, adding 800 acres and increasing the vertical to 3,900 feet.

We found plenty of good skiing with enough variety of runs to occupy any level of skier. If anything was lacking, it was beginner terrain. The planned expansion will answer that need on the lower part of the mountain with a new base village.

The next day we drove north to Schweitzer, already big enough to serve as a destination. The last few miles are up a switch backing mountain road to the base village at 4,700 feet. With 2,400 feet of vertical, a summit elevation of 6,400 feet and 2,500 acres, this resort can handle a lot of skiers.

A quad carries most skiers out of the base area to a summit ridge where they can branch out to groomed intermediate runs, drop into open bowls or follow another ridge to other lifts serving bowls, glades and trails through trees. Skiers looking for immediate challenge grab Chair One, a double that climbs to the top of South Ridge with its double black chutes.

We had a local guide help us find our way around the mountain. Reidar Wahl is a former pro racer from Norway who settled into the region and now builds custom wood furniture in his shop. He has some great looking pieces, but for us that day, he showed us the best parts of the mountain, finally getting us to Outback Bowl. This part of the mountain over the ridge from the runs visible from the base, has a terrific collection of intermediate runs with a sprinkling of advanced runs and glades, all served by six passenger chair. The chair runs out of a barn with a replica of an old mining steam engine. Don’t be concerned. The lift has modern drive as the engine is only for effect, but it’s a neat touch.

Our day at Schweitzer showed us a big ski resort with enough lifts to keep skiers moving. The essentials for vacationing on the mountain are in place – hotel and condominium lodging, restaurants, shops, ski shop, rentals and day lodge, all within walking distance from the lifts. And there is more to come. Harbor Properties, owners of Stevens Pass and Mission Ridge in the Casacades Mountains purchased the area in 1998 and has been busy upgrading what was in place, adding lifts and trails and creating master plan for the future.

Additional lodging with more underground parking will preserve the base area as a true pedestrian village. More lifts and terrain will be opened as needed, but Schweitzer already has enough to keep a good skier occupied for days. Using Coeur d’Alene as a base allows skiing at Silver and Schwietzer for additional variety. We found good snow and the elevation around 6,000 feet easy to handle. The moderate temperatures made for comfortable skiing and we finished the trip with a wonderful light show during a cruise before dinner overlooking the lake.

This was the first visit to Northern Idaho. It won’t be the last. And maybe on the next trip I’ll get a shot at that floating island green.

Dave Irons is a freelance writer who lives in Westbrook.

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