FARMINGTON – University of Maine at Farmington students and faculty, local merchants and passers-by gathered Wednesday at the Olsen Student Center for the 5th Annual Clean Conscience Holiday Fair.

At the first Clean Clothes Fashion Show, which kicked off the fair, university Russian professor Natalia Chuprova modeled a traditional garment from her native Komi Republic in northwestern Russia, while members of the college basketball team showed off their uniforms and two students modeled purchases from local thrift shops.

What do those three sets of clothing have in common? Based on university guidelines, all are “clean,” meaning they were made by companies and individuals using non-exploitative labor practices, that is garments sold without profiting companies that use sweatshops in production.

Both the fashion show and fair were organized by members of the university’s Purchasing Practices Policy Committee, which oversees the implementation of guidelines requiring suppliers of any textiles or other merchandise bearing the university insignia to “conduct their business in a manner which upholds the rights and dignity of workers.”

The drive to change the way the clothing industry does business has been gaining steam over the past decade, as stories outlining conditions in sweatshops worldwide began coming to the attention of interested individuals. A variety of “clean” organizations, including Maine’s own Clean Clothes Connection in Bangor, aim to educate the public about alternatives to sweatshop-made clothing.

Five local “clean” merchants, including textile artist Mary McFarland, Susun Terese of Minikins, Michelle Robinson of Dancing Violet Herbals, Celina Ellis of Harmony Designs, and Eric Odier-Fink of Justice Clothing set up tables during the fair where shoppers could purchase items seen during the fashion show.

Justice Clothing, a start-up “clean” store in Bangor, is one of the first retailers to buy directly from unionized U.S. clothing factories.

Owner Eric Odier-Fink said, “Aside from really high-end operations like Tahari and Ellen Tracy, it’s almost impossible to find clean’ clothes in the U.S.”

He and his wife, Mindi, started the company on Oct. 31, 2003, to provide alternatives to clothing made in sweatshops by workers paid around 7 cents to produce a sweater that will sell here for $40 or $50.