At least once during most years, I find myself traveling to Quebec. Some years it’s for golf in summer, others for skiing, and I always enjoy the experience.
A few weeks ago we headed for the Quebec ski resorts closest to us in the Eastern Townships. From South Paris, Magog is 139 miles following Route 26 to Colebrook, crossing the border at Canaan, Vt. The Townships are home to four well known ski areas – Orford a few minutes from Magog, Bromont to the West, Sutton to the Southwest and Owl’s Head to the South.
We skied the first day at Mont Sutton, an area known for its glades. Long before tree skiing became the in thing, Sutton’s skiers were sliding through the trees. Looking up at the mountain, it’s easy to pick terrain. To the left three lifts serve a bevy of black diamond runs with a few blue squares. Another lift divides the black and blues, left to steep and right for intermediate. Down the right side run mostly intermediate trails with a variety of novice runs along the left perimeter of the area. With three quads and six doubles, there is plenty of uphill capacity to move skiers up 1,500 vertical feet and enough variety on the way down to keep any level of skier happy. Better yet there are glades for all ability levels as well.
Having skied Orford on previous trips, we skipped it this time, but did get an update on what’s happening there. This mountain right off the Canadian auto route has 1,772 vertical feet of drop with 55 trails spread over two mountain peaks. The big news is a hybrid chair/gondola. Those who want to be inside can take off their skis and ride the eight passenger gondola, while the rest can take a six passenger chair. Where Sutton’s trails are mostly narrow and winding, Orford has a bunch of wide cruisers to go with a mix of more narrow runs.
Bromont has 56 runs scattered over two mountains, with the highest having 1,263 feet of vertical. Forty trails are lit for night skiing (“the most in North America”) and the resort keeps growing. Already three of the mountain’s faces have skiing and the fourth will be opened up next year with a new detachable quad. Bromont will have to wait for a future visit.
Owl’s Head, the closest area to the border, towers above Lac Memphremagog, giving it 1,772 feet of drop and spectacular views of the lake that stretches from Magog to Newport, Vt. Water for snowmaking, which covers 90 percent of the trails, is not lacking. The 44 trails are equally divided as to ability, with a new 15-20 acre glade adding to the mix. Our first run was down Lily’s Leap, named for the wife of the owner, Fred Korman. Her trail swings around the Eastern side of the mountain, a must for viewing the lake. Her husband’s trail, Korman’s Dive is a short steep double black. After cruising the intermediate runs and challenging ourselves a bit more with a run down Kamikazee it was time to head for the border. We left the Eastern Townships with memories of great hospitality, some excellent dining and varied skiing.
A little more than 40 miles from Owl’s Head is Jay Peak. It doesn’t get the recognition that some spots do, but the Hotel Jay features some of the finest dining in Vermont ski country. And that gourmet menu is available in the Golden Eagle Sports Bar where we settled in front of the big screen plasma TV.
As good as the food and hospitality are, Jay Peak is about the skiing. After grabbing breakfast in the base lodge, we were on our way up the Tram. A seven-minute ride carries skiers 2,153 vertical feet above the base, the last part over a steep face that appears unskiable, but in good snow years there are always tracks down its brush surrounded chutes. That’s another part of Jay’s character.
Signs warn of leaving the area’s boundaries, but within them nothing is closed. A woods skiing policy states that “Woods are not open, closed or marked, they contain many hazards.” It goes on to say they are recommended for expert skiers in groups of three or more and spells out skier responsibilities. There are more than 100 acres of off piste skiing within the boundaries, 76 trails, glades and chutes and eight lifts for access.
An impressive variety awaits all skiers, with runs for all. The mountain attracts a lot of good skiers and an annual average of 296 inches of snow guarantees they will get to ski in the trees and the steep ungroomed runs. For the rest of us there are plenty of buffed out trails. This was also a golf visit. A new course is under construction and is expected to open in 2006. That will make Jay Peak a true four season resort and give me another reason to return.
Between Jay and the Townships we had a chance to ski five resorts, a destination not far away with great variety.
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