By Doug Fletcher,Staff Writer
Critics view practice as possibly deceptive; FDA asked to revisit decision allowing treatment

Red may no longer be a good indicator of meat’s freshness.

Since 2004, the nation’s Food and Drug Administration has allowed meat processors to treat meat with carbon monoxide. The gas reacts with fresh meat in sealed packages in such a way as to lock in redness. One result: Meats can remain for sale longer, up to 28 days for ground meat and up to 35 days for solid cuts.

While the meat industry is generally in favor of the practice, consumer groups say the growing practice is deceptive, takes away an important means of detecting freshness and could mask health-threatening spoilage.

Hannaford supermarkets are among those that carry some meats treated with carbon monoxide, according to a company spokeswoman.

“Some of our beef suppliers do add small amounts of carbon monoxide when packaging meat so it retains its natural red color throughout its shelf life,” stated Elizabeth Dallara in an e-mail response to a query.

“This method has been used for many years and is approved and monitored by the FDA. Nothing about carbon monoxide packaging changes the safety of beef or the advice we provide consumers about safe handling and preparation of their meat,” she said.

“Consumers should always refer to the ‘use-by-date’ on the package to ensure product safety,” Dallara added.

Hannaford also offers meat products that are not treated with carbon monoxide, including the meats that are packaged in the stores and natural and organic products, she said.

Hannaford’s leading Maine competitor shuns the treatment to retain meat color.

“Shaw’s does not carry it,” said spokeswoman Judy Chong.

Nor does the store condone the use of the gas, she said, suggesting that it could mislead consumers who look to color as a sign of goodness.

“We view color as an indicator of freshness and quality,” Chong said.

Ned Porter, Maine’s commissioner of agriculture, said his department inspects meats regularly and hasn’t run into a problem with the carbon monoxide-treated meats.

Dr. Dora Anne Mills, who heads up the state’s health operations, also said she hasn’t heard of any problems with carbon monoxide-treated meats.

The New York Times reported Tuesday that the meat is sold under a variety of name brands and has been carried by SuperTarget stores as well as by 150 Wal-Mart stores.

An assistant manager at the Auburn Wal-Mart said he doesn’t think that store is among the retailer’s outlets carrying the meat, but added that he wasn’t certain.

Treating meat with carbon monoxide doesn’t make the food unhealthy, but consumer groups say it could be deceptive. The Times said the Consumer Federation of America and the advocacy group Safe Tables Our Priority have written to the FDA in support of a petition seeking to ban the gas. They say the bright red color of gas-treated meat could mask spoilage and dangerous bacteria in older meat or meat that hasn’t been kept at the proper temperature.

Many people buy meat based on its appearance and view redness as a freshness indicator. Meat treated with the gas, however, could remain in a store for weeks without losing its color. Since it’s packaged, any change in odor wouldn’t be noticed until someone brings the food home and opens it for use.

The Times, in an experiment, noted it bought two cuts of meat, one treated with carbon monoxide and one not treated. It kept both refrigerated from Feb. 3 to 16. The conventional meat had turned brown by then, but the treated meat was still bright red.

Another cut of meat bought by the Times appeared to be red and fresh despite being left on a kitchen counter from Feb. 14 to 20, The Times reported.

Cattlemen and others in the meat industry mostly favor the treatment.

Meanwhile, a Michigan company, Kalsec, has asked the FDA to reconsider its approval of carbon monoxide as a meat treatment.

Kalsec makes a natural food extract that it says helps slow the discoloring of meat but doesn’t “fix it” as the gas does.

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