Rooms shrouded in black make me dizzy. My eyes search for a line to tell me where the ceiling meets the wall. My hands grasp for a rail to hold onto.

Yet, I love movie theaters. As long as nearby moviegoers keep quiet, my focus stays on the bright screen. Maybe that’s why I liked the City Side Grill.

The walls, floors and tablecloths of the just-opened Park Street restaurant are all black, accented with tabletop candles, a few strings of white lights and an illuminated bar.

But the plates are white and the food — chef John Pulsifer’s stars — demands all the attention of a good movie.

I knew I’d like the food when the waiter started talking about bringing us some “nice, fresh bread”  and he appeared a minute later with slices of toasted garlic bread. The best way to hide stale bread is to toast it. This bread was so fresh, you can tell it had barely cooled before it was toasted.

My wife, Dawn, and I ordered bruchetta ($6) that made us forget the toast. It came with fresh Roma tomatoes, Buffalo mozzarella, herbs and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. My inner 10-year-old wanted to lick the plate when we finished.

The timely arrival of the entrees kept my manners in check.

Dawn’s dish was the Ravioli de Champignons ($12). The grill’s menu describes it as “pasta pillows” filled with wild mushrooms and ricotta in a porcini mushroom and garlic cream sauce. I managed a bite or two: yum.

My meal was the char-grilled tenderloin tips ($14). Chef Pulsifer bested the local chain restaurants, where it is a staple, by offering a full pound of steak on a bed of onions, mushrooms and peppers. It was served with a mound of mashed potatoes and gravy.

For dessert, Dawn and I shared a generous wedge of cheesecake topped with fresh strawberries ($6).

The price tag for the entire meal, including a bottomless soft drink: $40.65. The cost and the food compete head-to-head with any place out there. Other selections include chicken piccata, yankee pot roast, shrimp scampi and grilled pizzas, which seem to bridge the gap between pub food and fine dining.

Since the restaurant opened on Aug. 20th, it has been a dinner-only place. That is scheduled to change on Sept. 8, when Pulsifer plans to open for a lunch that includes a bigger menu and a soup-salad-and-sandwich buffet for $5.99.

Pulsifer also plans to bring in a DJ for dancing, beginning at 9:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday nights.

He shouldn’t have to. The food, like a good movie, deserves a dedicated audience of its own.

dhartill@sunjournal.com

What: City Side Grill

Where: 16 Park St., Lewiston

Why: Delicious food at reasonable prices and Chef Pulsifer’s touches; opening for lunch soon

When: Dinner: Tuesday-Saturday 4 p.m.-midnight; lunch (starting Tuesday) Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Closed Sundays; closed Labor Day

Contact: 312-5534

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