Seven strips of bacon.

Wait, wait.

That bears repeating: Seven strips of thin, crispy bacon. First thing in the morning, on an empty stomach, when you’re maybe expecting only two, that’s a pleasant surprise.

I’d been to the Fairground Cafe in the Topsham Fair Mall a half-dozen times now with the same friend, already stuck in a happy rut: Oatmeal and cinnamon raisin toast, oatmeal and cinnamon raisin toast, oatmeal and cinnamon raisin toast.

To weigh in on the menu at large with any authority, she decided, wisely, we had to branch out a bit.

So one morning this week, I ordered the sausage gravy with biscuits and home fries ($5.50,) she the two eggs, bacon, home fries and cinnamon raisin toast ($5.) We also opted to split a side of two raspberry pancakes ($3.)

At the mall, Fairground is an island of local fare surrounded by lots of chains. (Starbucks, McDonald’s, Ruby Tuesdays, Wendy’s, Little Caesar’s.) Inside are high-backed booths and regular tables, lots of wood paneling and, in a nod to its name, decades’ worth of old, framed Topsham Fair posters. For a bit of privacy and room to stretch out, ask for or wait for one of the booths.

My meal arrived in hungry-man portions, more than I could eat, and hers came with the bacon that she kindly split. The biscuits were big and the gravy didn’t skimp on the sausage or just enough kick. The pancakes were bright pink, a good sign, and tasty. An hour later, we rolled ourselves out the door.

Breakfast choices were traditional, a steak and cheese omelet with home fries and toast ($7.75) was the only bit of unexpected. The lunch menu offered plenty of seafood (a cup of haddock chowder $4.50, lobster roll $9.99, fried fish scallops dinner $10). It’s fresh, caught off the coast of Belfast and delivered every day, according to owner Perry Leavitt.
Several of the dinners and the chicken wraps (buffalo, pesto $6.75) come with a choice of sides that included pickled beets. One more bit of unexpected.

Several signs encouraged diners to “Ask about homemade pies,” and since they weren’t on the menu, I did. Leavitt said they offer raspberry, blueberry, peach, coconut, apple and banana, but chocolate cream is probably the favorite.

You may need a scorecard to keep up with the hours it closes depending on the day of the week, but it’s good to know that breakfast is served all day and it always opens at the same time: Early. (6 a.m.)

kskelton@sunjournal.com

What: Fairground Cafe

Where: 49 Topsham Fair Mall Road, Topsham (right off I-295); in the middle of the strip mall

Why: Good meeting spot to fuel up for a morning of shopping; linger over hot chocolate or coffee to plan the day. Two more words: Homemade pie.

When: Monday 6 a.m.-8 p.m.; Tuesday and Wednesday 6 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; Thursday 6 a.m.-8 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 6 a.m.-9 p.m.; Sunday 6 a.m.-2 p.m.

Contact: 729-5366

Sausage biscuts and home fries from the Fairground Cafe in Topsham

While at the Fairgrounds Cafe I was told by one of the regulars that the Haddock chowder was “the best anywhere!” He had a point, as the thick, rich and succulent flavor was as good as any I have had in a long time.

The Fairground Cafe at the Topsham Fair Mall in Topsham.

Copy the Story Link