Someone better call the fun police because there’s a new restaurant in Lewiston that has crossed the fun line. The recently opened Pedro O’Hara’s in the former Espo’s offers up more than a mix of American, Mexican and Irish cuisine. They really serve up a festive vibe that stems from good food, good friends and good spirits.

The brainchild of Lewiston native Peter Therriault, Pedro O’Hara’s, like so many great ideas, began as a joke. A decade ago when Therriault was living in Brunswick and the owner of a nightclub, he and a buddy from Boston were lamenting the fact that there were no Irish pubs or Mexican restaurants in the area. They jokingly came up with the idea of a mash-up restaurant and the name Pedro O’Hara’s. Therriault and his then business partner opened the first Pedro’s in Brunswick 10 years ago. A decade later, Therriault is pleased “beyond expectations” at the reception Pedro’s has received in Lewiston in its first few weeks. He’s especially pleased to open in his hometown with two fellow Lewiston natives, Troy Kavanaugh and Bill Welch.

Therriault had always wanted to open a place in Lewiston. During his 10 years running Pedro’s in Brunswick and for three years in Freeport, he had focused on offering a variety of great food at a fair price in a homey setting where people are treated to excellent service. He appears to be bringing that most excellent business plan to Lewiston, and I’m not just saying that because I went in there as the “food critic” and the place was hopping at three o’clock on a Wednesday afternoon. But I will say it felt surprisingly like home when I walked in.

Therriault has partnered with longtime friend Kavanaugh, who brings 15 years experience as a wine seller and sales director for Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire and Eastern Canada at White Rock Distilleries. To that end, the bar offers Mexican beer and a colorful selection of margaritas. Their best-seller is Pedro’s Perfected Perfect Margarita, which promises to be a blend of top-shelf ingredients. And for the O’Hara in Pedro O’Hara’s, there is a wide selection of Guinness, scotch and whiskey.

So, first you have the guy who has run a successful restaurant business for 10 years. Then, there’s the wine seller/spirits guy. But what’s up with the third guy, former Lewiston police chief Welch? Well, say hello to the frontman. When asked, “How’d you get into this?” he just shrugs and smiles.

Kavanaugh and Welch go way back. In fact, when Welch joined the Lewiston Police Department in 1976, he got Kavanaugh’s dad’s badge number. Now retired for a year and a half, Welch served in the department for 34 years, the last 12 as police chief. He is obviously in his element greeting everyone who comes in. “I’d say 70 percent of the people who have been in, I know,” Welch laughs. They plan to have a grand opening in a few weeks, but all three have been pleased with the support they’ve felt the first couple weeks.

The space maintains the same basic structure as when it was Espo’s Trattoria, with a few well-chosen changes. The new owners have closed the view of the kitchen in the back and added a half-wall in the dining space to create more seating and privacy. Along the window wall, they have added a row of vintage booths that were once in the Portland Village Cafe. They’ve also added table seating in the lounge to make for a cozier feel.

The menu offers a wide selection of Tex Mex classics. Chef Steve Zanco made a plate of fresh house nachos layered with abundant ingredients throughout; on top of this tower of yum he added generous servings of homemade salsa and guacamole. Zanco also whipped up 3 Amigos, a signature dish that includes herb garlic sauteed shrimp, teriyaki steak tips and barbecue chicken breasts served with a side of mashed potatoes. Finally, Zanco prepared shepherd’s pie with ground lamb. All three dishes popped with fresh flavor and are sure to please many palates.

With grilled burgers priced under 10 bucks and entrees averaging around $13, Pedro O’Hara’s promises to be a welcoming home away from home for when you want good eats and drinks in a jovial setting.

Pedro O’Hara’s Shepherd’s Pie

Makes four generous servings

Ingredients

2 pounds ground lamb

½ cup diced carrot

½ cup diced celery

½ cup diced onion

¼ cup flour

1 cup homemade brown gravy

2 cups peas or corn (fresh or frozen work equally well)

Worcestershire sauce

2 1/2 cups mashed potatoes

Shredded cheese (optional)

Salt and pepper to taste

In a large skillet, brown and drain the lamb. Add the diced carrots, celery and onions. Cook until vegetables are tender.

Add flour and stir. Add the brown gravy and a dash of Worcestershire sauce. Add the peas or corn. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Fill a large casserole pan with prepared lamb and vegetable filling. Top with mashed potatoes. Sprinkle with shredded cheese (optional).

Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes, or until golden brown.

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