Cucumber, squash and other leaves are dead or dying, the last of the tomatoes have been picked, and the corn is getting too chewy to eat. The summer squash are way too mature for sauteeing, so I am looking for a pig farmer who may want them for feed.

Dozens of huge pumpkins are still green, but they will turn their bright, cheery orange in a few days.

The root crops, like carrots and beets, can stay a while longer in the garden, but virtually everything else must be pulled up and placed in the compost bin.

Another growing season is fast coming to an end.

For two consecutive years, my garden, which seems to grow larger and larger each year, has produced supremely bounteous crops of nearly everything. And for yet another year, it’s the end of September and frost has yet to hit.

Cleaning up this year’s garden, and preparing for the next year is a monumental task, but one that must be done. One year, I was so busy with work and other things that I left it. Never again!

Advertisement

When the next spring arrived, instead of tilling and getting the early crops in as soon as possible, days were spent cleaning up last year’s debris before I could even start. Consequently, my garden was planted later than usual and wasn’t as abundant as it could have been.

Assess this year’s garden

Equally important to cleaning up the garden and putting it to bed is doing an assessment of this year’s crops: How did they grow? Did they liked their neighboring plants? What steps can be taken to improve 2012’s garden?

For example, don’t plant tomatoes and potatoes adjacent to each other. They are of the same botanical family, and if a blight hits, both crops will die.

Were the corn stalks shading out other vegetables? Should they be moved?

Were the edible corn and ornamental corn planted too close to each other, resulting in colored spots on the eating corn? Plant each variety as far away from each other as possible.

Advertisement

Did the potatoes have enough room to grow large tubers?

Did the cucumber vines crawl over tomato plants or other vegetables?

Should some of the vine crops be trellised? If so, start building them now. Or, if space allows, perhaps separate mounds or beds should be built, so everything is ready in the spring.

Consider which plants should go in early, such as spinach, lettuce and other greens, along with potatoes. Plan for their spaces.

I usually create a planting plan on graph paper, then stick as close as possible to it when I do the actual planting. On the paper, I also write the names of each vegetable planted on its location. Remember, when they germinate, it’s not always easy to identify what’s growing. Also, consider whether the rows and spacing between crops should be closer to each other or farther apart? Little sprouts grow into very large plants as the summer progresses if the weather cooperates.

Are there some vegetables that should be started early, on windowsills in the house? Perhaps more of my pumpkins would be orange now if I had given them a head start.

Advertisement

Do you want another bed for planting something entirely new? If so, build it now. Although much of my garden grows many of the same vegetables and varieties of these vegetables each year, it’s fun to try something entirely different.

One year, I grew Japanese cucumbers. They aren’t for pickling, but they grew into long, curvy skinny fruit that was a delight to see and to eat.

Another year, fingerling potatoes were the experiment (successful!).

Do you want less of something? More? If so, plan for their spaces now.

Soil preparation

Probably one of the most important things to know is whether your garden soil is suitable for planting vegetable crops or if it needs some amendments. The best way to find out is to have it tested. A testing kit may be acquired from the Maine Soil Testing Service, 5722 Deering Hall, Orono, Maine 04469.

Advertisement

Although many of our ancestors were often forced to use “poor man’s fertilizer,” snow, to over-winter the garden, using organic manure from chickens, geese or other birds, or cow manure, is far superior.

Once the plants have been pulled and placed in the compost heap, make sure the weeds and grass you may have let go, are also cleared. Don’t put those in the compost heap. The seeds will just return to the garden when the compost is used. Also, don’t place diseased plants in the pile. It could live on and infect next year’s plants.

Till the garden, and add lime, if the soil is too acidic. This is also a good time to spread on any natural manure you may have.

Now is also the time to start a compost heap if you don’t already have one. I keep two going. One for long term, such as the bin next to the garden shed that holds tough plant wastes, like household plant wastes and plants from the garden.

The other is shorter term so it will be ready for the next season.

This contains sawdust and pigeon and goose wastes layered with chopped up leaves. Instead of raking the leaves and placing them whole in the compost bin, mow them first. This gives a head start on breaking down the leaves into usable organic matter.

Advertisement

Final thoughts

Gardening-related activities, for me, really don’t end in October. Now, we can start using all that produce that I canned, pickled, jellied, dried or froze. As I look at the rows upon rows of red, green, yellow and orange-filled jars lining my pantry, I take great satisfaction in knowing that I have made a significant contribution to the year’s food supply, as well as gifts to friends and family members. Nothing gives me more satisfaction.

When the snow and wind blows in January and February, I sit in front of the wood stove with piles of seed catalogs, studying each and every vegetable and herb variety. I leisurely browse through each, and dream of spring weather, emerging crocuses and the promise of yet another growing season. Each one is different, and each one gives me a great sense of joy and satisfaction.

Getting as much done now as possible is really important to having a successful garden in the spring. But, as always, when limited time or energy prevent such efforts, just wing it next year. Any gardening is better than no gardening at all.


Only subscribers are eligible to post comments. Please subscribe or login first for digital access. Here’s why.

Use the form below to reset your password. When you've submitted your account email, we will send an email with a reset code.