Eats: Fresh pasta is ‘good for the soul’

Nestled in the shadow of western Maine’s Streaked Mountain in South Paris stands Stoneheart Farm, where John and Doreen Simmons began “living the good life” after John hung up his stethoscope.

With lots of hard work they transformed an idle farm into a vibrant and diversified one, nurturing Katahdin sheep that produce fresh lamb sold throughout central and southern Maine; raising free-range hens for eggs; growing produce in their gardens and greenhouse; and making fresh, authentic Italian pasta.

And lots of it! Angel hair, linguine, bucatini and fusilli are a few examples of pastas made each Wednesday at Stoneheart Farm.

How did fresh pasta become a part of the mix at this working farm?

“My dad had a passion for cooking, and although he was Dutch he taught me pasta making . . . and I have shared that passion ever since,” said Doreen, who moved with John to Maine from Pennsylvania after he retired from his medical career because they were looking for “a farm with land and lots of elbow room.”

She continued: “We (she and her father) even talked about opening a small bistro together with the red checkered tablecloths and the Three Tenors playing in the background. Well, that never happened. He has passed now, but we know he would be proud of what we are doing and our ‘Cucina’ is dedicated to him.”

With the couple’s love of pasta, and working with friends who mentored them, they agreed to “test the waters” and purchase a small commercial pasta extruder in 2015, mainly selling at the Norway Farmer’s Market.

“It was so well received we rapidly went from 20 to 60 pounds per week,” said John. “It gave us the confidence that we were making a product that folks loved, so we took the plunge and built a commercial kitchen, purchased an industrial pasta machine direct from Italy and the business continued to grow.”

The couple is now making more than 250 pounds of fresh pasta each week, much of it infused with flavors including basil, paprika, fresh kale and spinach fresh from the garden — and sometimes even add black squid ink for a gourmet flair.

THE MAGIC OF FLOUR AND EGGS

So how does it all go down at the Stoneheart pasta kitchen?

“The pasta machine makes it a more efficient process,” explained John. “One bin is mixing and resting dough, and a second bin, containing an auger, pushes the dough out through an interchangeable brass die that controls the pasta shape. Brass dies help to impart a slightly rougher texture to hold sauce, yet still leave a delicate consistency,” he said.

Got flour and eggs? You too can make fresh and delicious pasta. But if you are thinking “Why would anyone bother to make pasta when all you need is a pot of boiling water and a box of store-bought?” then it’s time for an introduction to fresh pasta.

“Authentic Italian fresh pasta is basically flour and eggs, and is chosen by many for its silky yet springy texture and a rich, almost buttery egg-yolk flavor with a subtle, yellow hue,” explained Doreen.

“Dry pasta typically contains no eggs and is mechanically mixed and dried for optimum storage. That alone speaks volumes. . . . Just bite into a forkful of each and you’ll never buy boxed again,” she said.

“Once in boiling water, it takes about 90 seconds to cook,” added John. “And unlike boxed pasta it’s delicious on its own. Less is more — as in there’s no need to mask the flavor of the pasta with a heavy sauce. In the time it takes to boil your water you can have a light, yet hearty meal.”

A few examples:

* Add grated parmesan and fresh basil to fettuccine.

* Lightly sauted diced Roma tomatoes and garlic over angel hair.

* A can of baby clams with juice and a splash of white wine reduced, over linguine.

* A spoonful of sun-dried tomato pesto over spinach noodles.

John says making fresh pasta may seem like a huge undertaking, but it is an imminently achievable skill. “Fresh pasta is worth the effort and it will taste far better than anything you can buy — even the first time you make it.”

EASY FIRST STEPS TO PASTA PERFECTION

What you will need:

* Two cups of all-purpose flour

* Two eggs

* One-half teaspoon salt

* Two tablespoons olive oil.

That will be enough for about four servings and the recipe can easily be cut in half or doubled, the couple said.

The only equipment you need is a fork, a whisk, your hands, a rolling pin and a knife. Yes, a food processor and a pasta machine make it easier if you have them, but not necessary.

“Pile flour on a clean counter top and blend in the salt with a fork. Then create a deep well in the middle of the flour and crack the eggs into it. Whisk the eggs to combine, add oil and gradually pull the flour from the bottom and sides to start forming a soft dough. Once formed, fold the dough onto itself, flattening and folding again. When the dough has become firm, begin kneading until it forms a smooth ball,” Doreen explained.

If you prefer to use a food processor, add ingredients and pulse until dough starts to form, then run until ball forms, and proceed with hand kneading.

Now it’s time to let it rest.

“Bind in plastic wrap and let it rest for at least 20 minutes allowing the gluten to do its job. At this point it can also be refrigerated for up to 24 hours, but let it come back to room temp before rolling,” said Doreen.

Then it’s time to divide the dough into four portions, grabbing one to work with. Wrap the other three so they don’t dry out. Flatten one portion into a disk. If you have a pasta maker, feed it through the machine at the thickest setting and repeat, dusting with flour if needed. Begin changing the settings to make the pasta thinner and thinner, repeating each thickness. Stop when your desired thickness is reached. Then sprinkle with flour and run through the cutter.

If you don’t have a pasta machine, no worries.

“Mimic the action of the roller with a rolling pin!” said Doreen. “Keep it floured, and when you have reached the desired thickness, roll it up like a jelly roll and slice. This is a great way to ‘test your waters’ before investing in a machine.”

To finish your pasta production, simply toss it into boiling salted water for 1 to 2 minutes, depending on the thickness.

FINAL PASTA POINTERS

* One cup of flour to one egg is two servings. One pound of flour is approximately four servings.

* It’s easiest to roll out all the pasta before cutting. Then, sprinkle each sheet of pasta with flour and overlap on a baking sheet covered with a towel.

* Store pasta in plastic containers in the refrigerator for a week or freeze for up to three months.

* For boiling each pound of pasta, use 6 quarts of water with 3 tablespoons of salt.

* Do not rinse the cooked pasta. The starch “glues” sauce to the noodles.

“The benefits of fresh pasta are numerous,” said John. “There’s no question that fettuccine Alfredo is a whole new experience with fresh pasta.”

“It’s good for the soul,” Doreen added. “Both making it or eating it . . . or buying it fresh from Stoneheart Farm! We have come a long way from my dad’s crank machine, and my only regret is that he is not here to be a part of it.”

Alfredo sauce

Ingredients:

1/2 stick salted butter

1-2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon all-purpose flour

1 cup half-and-half

1 cup shredded parmesan cheese

Instructions:

Melt butter over medium heat and add garlic. Saute 1 minute.

Whisk in flour and stir another minute. Slowly whisk in half-and-half and bring to a slow boil. Reduce to simmer and add cheese. Top with chopped parsley.

Makes 8 servings.