Many Mainers are familiar with Moxie, that tart tonic that is so associated with our state that it was made the official soft drink in 2005. Its peculiar taste, simultaneously sweet and bitter, has made it both loved and reviled. It’s long history and local origins have made it a staple in Maine, and particularly in its de facto hometown of Lisbon Falls, where the annual Moxie Festival in July draws thousands of fans.

But few know that this soda, created in the 1870s by Dr. Augustin Thompson of Union and originally billed as a medicinal tonic called “Moxie Nerve Food,” has various applications in cooking.

Because of its complex and layered flavors, Moxie lends itself as an ingredient in a variety of dishes, said Justin Liuvinaitis, whose recipe for Moxie mustard won 1st place in last year’s Moxie Recipe Contest at the Moxie Festival. By varying the cooking process, said Liuvinaitis, you can “create different flavors through Moxie.”

Liuvinaitis explained that Moxie’s taste stems from three distinct flavors. What began as a strictly bitter tonic is today a combination of bitterness (derived from gentian root), sweetness (with a touch of honey flavor) and lemony molasses notes (from the addition of phosphoric acid). The key, he said, is to lift the particular flavors by matching them with a spice or herb.

Due to Moxie’s complexity, last year’s recipe competition was a smorgasbord. “We had a range of dishes, from salads to desserts to barbecue sauces,” said Fern Larochelle, a Lisbon town councilor who participated as a judge in the contest. He remembered the Moxie couscous salad as well as the Moxie cookies, though he admitted that “it was really hard to pick a favorite.”

“The delivery process is key,” said Larochelle, referring to Moxie’s ability to bring out diverse flavors. “Some of the breads were very sweet,” he said, while other dishes highlighted Moxie’s tart or even lime-y qualities.

Ultimately, said Liuvinaitis, it all comes down to the process. For example, he suggested soaking wood chips in Moxie before using them for meat smoking. “It caramelizes in the wood a little,” which adds sweetness to, for instance, a brisket that has been brined for a week. Alternatively, combining Moxie with dill will lessen its “medicinal” flavor, while mixing Moxie and anise, according to Liuvinaitis, is a good way to complement the bitter flavor.

Liuvinaitis, who owns and runs Sam’s Own Good Cooking, a personal chef service operating in Androscoggin and Sagadahoc counties, has been cooking with Moxie “since I learned that I could,” he said.

After moving to Lisbon four years ago he began learning about the local beverage. His first recipe using Moxie was for whoopee pies. Last year he began developing a Moxie marshmallow (still in the works). But he also likes the drink by itself. “On a hot day,” he said, “I’m a fan of walking to the corner store and getting Moxie with a red hot dog.”

At this year’s festival, which will run July 8, 9, and 10, Liuvinaitis will be organizing the Moxie Recipe Contest and the Chug N Challenge. Traditionally, he said, entries have included baked beans, sauces and desserts. He hopes that this year they will see even more creative entries, such as recipes for salad dressings, lobster pairings, stone fruit pairings, toast spreads and cocktails.

For those interested in cooking with Moxie, Liuvinaitis suggests heading to the Kennebec Fruit Company on Main Street in Lisbon Falls, where Frank Anicetti (who signs his name “A Moxie Drinker” and who began the festival in 1984) sells a Moxie cookbook. Additionally, he said, you might go to Dr. Mike’s Madness Cafe in Lisbon Falls or Benoit’s Bakery and Wine Cellar in Lisbon, both of which serve Moxie-inspired treats.

Moxie Pulled Pork (From Justin Liudvinaitis)

15 pounds or less Boston butt

1 can Moxie

Place meat and Moxie in a slow cooker and cook 8 hours on low. The meat is ready when a thermometer shows the interior temperature has reached 170 degrees and  meat pulls from the bone. Transfer to a plate to pull apart the meat. With two forks pulling in opposite directions pull meat into strands. Taste and add 1/2 cup cooking liquid to mixture. Add salt and pepper if necessary. Top with Moxie BBQ sauce and serve on a hamburger bun with cabbage or Morse’s Sauerkraut and a pickle on the side.

Moxie Mustard (From Justin Liudvinaitis — took 1st place in 2010)

1/2 cup mustard seeds (brown)

1/2 cup Moxie

Brown sugar

White vinegar

Place seeds and Moxie in an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to a week and no less than 2 days. After the seeds have soaked in the Moxie, use a mortar and pestle (or other appropriate grinding tool) and crush seeds to a pasty consistency. When the seeds are at the desired consistency add brown sugar and vinegar, a teaspoon at a time, to obtain the desired consistency of mustard. The longer this ages the more of an English style it will become.

Moxie Whoopie Pies (From Scott Bernier of Winslow — took 3rd place in 2004)

For the “heels”:

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

5 tablespoons cocoa

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup shortening

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/3 cup dry milk

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vinegar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup Moxie

Combine all ingredients together except Moxie and salt. In separate container add salt to Moxie. Wait for foaming to decrease and add to rest of ingredients. Beat with electric mixer until smooth. Drop by heaping teaspoons onto ungreased cookie sheets. Bake in 350-degree oven for 10 to 12 minutes. Cool on wax paper completely before frosting with filling.

For the filling:

2 cups confectioners sugar

1 cup shortening

3 tablespoons Moxie

Dash salt

Combine ingredients in bowl and beat until smooth. Frost half the heels and place the other half on top. Makes about one dozen whoopie pies. Eliminate the cocoa for blondies.

A taste of Moxie

The Annual Moxie Festival in Lisbon Falls takes place July 8-10 this year. For a taste of Jason Liudvinaitis’ Moxie pulled pork and hot dogs with Moxie mustard, stop by Sunday, between 11:30 a.m. and 1 p.m., at the Sabattus River Boat Launch off Route 196 in Lisbon, where the 13th Annual Chief Worumbo Androscoggin River Race will end and lunch will begin.

To enter the contest, go to http://www.moxiefestival.com/pdfs/recipe.pdf for complete rules and information. Entries must be checked in between 11 a.m. and noon on Saturday, July 9, at the festival’s Main Street stage. For questions not answered on the website, e-mail Justin at [email protected].