
LEWISTON — When Bee Catanoso heard that the owner of Canton Wok had been taken into custody by immigration officials this week, it evoked a slew of memories, some of them painful.
The daughter of an immigrant herself, Catanoso used to live across the hall from Xing Feng Dong and his family near the restaurant they operated at 920 Lisbon St.
“They were always extremely nice and hardworking people,” she said.
Dong and his wife had two children at that time, and when they weren’t at home, Bee Catanoso said, they were at the Canton Wok serving up their brand of Chinese food.
Dong was taken into federal custody May 6 by the U.S. Immigration & Naturalization Service. He was being held at the Cumberland County Jail in Portland pending a deportation hearing.
In Lewiston, the arrest of Dong generated a lot of heated political discussion, particularly on social media. For some, the fact that a local businessman had been snatched up by federal officials was tough news to bear.
“Lewiston is supposed to be a place where people can start over,” said Catanoso. “It’s a place where people should be able to feel safe. That’s what it was like when I was a child. People cared about other people. We can’t thrive unless we are a community. I don’t believe in much but I believe in that.”
But there were also those who simply lamented the loss of a business that had operated in Lewiston for two decades. The Canton Wok, located at the corner of Lisbon and Rosedale streets, had developed a significant customer base over the years, and those customers said they’ll miss both the food and the hospitality of the Dong family and others who ran the restaurant.
Chris Matthews, of Lewiston, described Dong as a nice man who, on occasion, would let Matthews have food when he found himself short on cash.
Like others, Matthews found himself mystified that a man who ran a quality business for so long could just vanish into federal custody out of the blue.
“I hope things work out for him,” Matthews said. “We need decent people like him whether an immigrant or not.”
Jason Field, formerly of Lewiston, was wowed by the efficiency with which Dong and his crew operated the business.
“Me and my family always ate there,” Field said. “Our experience was pleasant on days when we ordered delivery. The service was prompt, our food was kept hot. On days when we went in person, they were always busy but the wait time projected was accurate. No more than 15-20 minute wait time regardless of the order size. The staff was pleasant to talk to even though they always seem to be in a rush.”
Field said the staff at Canton Wok took pains to remember the names of their regular customers, of which there were many. In a community where there is no shortage of Chinese restaurants to choose from, Field felt that Canton Wok stood out.
“It was a restaurant that I was happy to have local,” he said.
John Riordan and his family ate regularly at the restaurant over the course of a full decade, making the trip from Lisbon to grab Canton Wok takeout.
“I always had the same thing and my wife would change things up,” he said. “Loved their extra spicy Kung Pao chicken. Their delivery was extremely quick and always got the order correct.”
The way the business came to such an abrupt end, Riordan said, is troubling.
“It’s definitely sad to hear someone was caught up in this after being here for two decades,” he said.
Lori A. Hallett, of Lewiston, said the last time she went to Canton Wok, a couple months ago, Dong saw her struggling with her cane and came outside to make sure she got her food order loaded into her car.
“He was always nice and would chat with me,” Hallett said. “I didn’t go often, but every time I did, the food was good and reasonably priced.”
On social media, those who weren’t debating the political aspects of Dong’s arrest were trying to find alternate sources of good Chinese food now that the Canton Wok is gone. Several threads appeared on Facebook over the past few days where locals suggested other restaurants in the area.
But the people who frequented Canton Wok seemed to prefer them exclusively.
“When I lived on South Avenue in Lewiston,” said Della Welch Snow, “we ordered from there for over ten years. Wonderful hard working people.”
Jennifer Costello, of Lewiston, declared the Canton Wok, “The best Chinese food.
“No matter what you ordered he’d say 10 minutes — by the time I got there it was hot and ready,” Costello said. “Never a disappointment. The food was always good.”
Whether there is any possibility the Canton Wok will be opened again in the future remains to be seen. All indications, including a “permanently closed” banner on at least one restaurant review website, are that it’s gone for good.
Attempts to reach Dong’s family were unsuccessful Thursday.
Inquiries about the case were not answered by ICE officials. Cumberland County Sheriff Kevin Joyce said on Thursday that he would need permission from that agency before granting media access to Dong himself.