“Always fresh!” is how Neil LaRochelle answers the phone at his seafood restaurant and market in New Auburn.

You know what he means when you see him surrounded by hundreds of pounds of fresh-from-the-sea shrimp in the back room of the small establishment, located at 22 Mill St.

Offering proof that he’s been cleaning shrimp all his life is an old, framed newspaper article from March 14, 1969, hanging on the wall featuring a photo of LaRochelle at age 2 cleaning away. In the article, his mother is quoted as saying “Shrimp is a good substitute for lobster, and less expensive.” Since the same holds true 43 years later — and also because it’s shrimp season — LaRochelle borrowed a few of his favorite recipes from her well-worn, hand-written cook book and shared them with us.

One of his all-time favorite shrimp dishes is Shrimp Chop Suey, he said. Its great flavor, he believes, is provided by the sauce. He also shared a fun recipe from his childhood (and probably that of many others’) called Shrimp Wiggle, which he considers delicious. His family served it on toast points or puffed pastry shells (unlike others, who — I confess with some chagrin — took the less cultured route of scrunched-up saltine crackers).

My ears perked up when he mentioned “shrimp dip.” Before I knew it, I had sampled small dollops of it on Ritz crackers, written down the recipe, and was happy to hear the dip is almost always kept in stock in his cooler (small containers for $5). He laughingly said his family tends to make this dip for almost any holiday or special occasion — and every time they eat it someone will say “This is the best ever!” I found the dip to be the perfect complement to that night’s light supper of spinach salad and a cup of LaRochelle’s fish chowder.

And when it comes to chowder, Always Fresh LaRochelle’s Seafood offers up some of the best in town — winning prizes in chowder competitions in 2006, 2007 and 2011. As the youngest of six children, his stay-at-home mom taught him a lot about cooking, and his chowder started off with her recipe, which he has since perfected. Quarts of the fish chowder run $10 ($5 for a pint) and seafood chowder is $12 (or $6 for a pint).

In spite of its size, the fish market, also does double duty as a seafood restaurant — “all take-out,” he said. His customers don’t seem to mind the absence of dining tables or counter stools. They plan in advance to either bring their meals home or “picnic” in their cars.

“I wanted to keep it simple,” he said, and has no plans to expand any time soon. “I have reasonable prices, and serve a good quantity of food.” Daily specials are offered, usually using a fish or seafood that is in season, or perhaps something great he picked up that day directly off a fishing boat or at market.

Typically from Mother’s Day through Thanksgiving, LaRochelle’s sells individual “lobster clambakes” (including one lobster, a pound of clams, corn on the cob and a few baby red potatoes, all wrapped up in a mesh bag) usually for $15. Because he knows most of his customers are looking for convenience, he will cook them for you. “You just have to bring it home, dump it on a plate and it’s ready to eat.” (Just think: A mess-free, smell-free kitchen!) They also offer the service of lobster cooking. Just call in your order and it will be ready when you get there.

The market consistently stocks yellow fin tuna, salmon (usually farm-raised, although sometimes wild), scallops and oysters (both native and from Chesapeake Bay). They sell a lot of haddock, which he said is fresh-cut and filleted right in the store. His main focus is quality control, he said. “It’s the biggest thing about keeping customers happy.” Also in the cooler (beside that fresh shrimp dip), you will find crab meat, Black Tigers (large cocktail shrimp), clear lobster meat and his home-made seafood stuffing.

For convenient one-stop-shopping, he stocks a few marinades, bread items, potato chips and drinks.

He said this year’s shrimp season is expected to be much shorter and smaller than that of 2011. Last year’s haul was approximately 12 million pounds, whereas this year’s will end when they reach 4 million pounds. If possible, LaRochelle tries to stock his freezers with about 1,500 pounds of fresh shrimp, which he will use in meals and chowders through the fall.

Neil LaRochelle offers a few tips on preparing and cooking Maine shrimp at www.sunjournal.com.

Always Fresh LaRochelle’s Seafood

22 Mill St., Auburn

782-3150

Winter hours: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.

LaRochelle’s shrimp Tip of the Day: If you soak your fresh shrimp in a bucket of ice water for at least 12 hours before peeling, the shells will slip away from the shrimp meat much more easily.

LaRochelle’s Shrimp Dip

3 ounces cream cheese

1 cup sour cream

1 package Good Seasons Mild Italian Salad Dressing

2 teaspoons lemon juice

1 cup fresh Maine shrimp, cooked and chopped (or 1 can, drained thoroughly)

Mix all together. Blend well. Refrigerate and enjoy with crackers, chips or pretzels.

Shrimp Chop Suey

4 tablespoons butter, divided

1 to 2 cups shrimp

1 cup onions, sliced

2 cups celery, sliced

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

1 cup hot water

1 can Chinese bean sprouts or 1 bag fresh bean sprouts

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons cornstarch

Saute onions in 3 tablespoons butter for about 3 minutes. Add celery, hot water, salt and pepper. Cover and cook 5 to 10 minutes. Stir often.

Saute shrimp in remaining butter for about 2 minutes. Add sprouts to the celery and onion, cook a few minutes. Add shrimp. Heat to the boiling point. Combine soy sauce, sugar, water and cornstarch. Add to the shrimp mixture. Cook and stir for a few minutes to thicken. Serve with Chinese noodles or rice. Says Mrs. LaRochelle: “This is great made with scallops, or a combination of shrimp and scallops. Also great with mushrooms added.”

Shrimp Wiggle

4 tablespoons butter

3 tablespoons flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon pepper

2 cups milk

1 to 2 cups fresh cooked shrimp

1 cup cooked peas

In a small saucepan, melt butter over low heat. Add flour, salt and pepper, stirring constantly with wire whisk. Add milk slowly; cook and stir until mixture is smooth and thick. Fold in shrimp and peas. Serve on pastry shells or toast points. “A few shakes of sherry wine gives wonderful flavor to this shrimp dish.”