NEW YORK – Zac Posen, winner of this year’s award for emerging talent from the Council of Fashion Designers of America, offered a futuristic look for spring 2005.

His filled-to-capacity runway show Friday night included a dark gray stud dress, a black spider-web gown and an orange fantail raincoat. Most of the garments hugged the body, a departure from the looser silhouettes so prevalent during the first half of an eight-day schedule of designer shows at New York Fashion Week.

Posen offered three distinct groups of designs. One blended several bold patterns – pop-art flowers, argyle and stripes – in bold colors such as yellow, green and orange; another was his edgy version of the nautical look, including a metallic embroidered cable skirt and a pair of tight sailor pants paired with a Nehru jacket; and a third was Barbarella meets Catwoman.

There wasn’t one outfit in his show that could have come from the Moroccan marketplace that inspired designers such as Carolina Herrera, Cynthia Steffe and Nicole Miller at their spring previews earlier in the week.

Highlights of his collection included a dress that shimmered with argyle diamonds of purple, gold and silver beads with a fringe hemline and a black gown with peekaboo tiers.

Lesley Jane Seymour, editor-in-chief of Marie Claire, said she preferred Posen’s simpler fitted shapes over the flamboyant gowns with long trains that closed his show.

“I thought he was trying a little too hard with those big parachutes, but the colors were great, and he’s going to sell a gazillion of those sheer T-shirts he had with the skirts and pants,” Seymour told The Associated Press. “I like when he’s modern and functional.”

Tennis star Serena Williams took several pictures of styles with her digital camera from her vantage point on the front row. She was seated near actress Claire Danes and model/socialite/reality TV star Paris Hilton.

Earlier in the day, Monique Lhuillier’s show attracted Nicole Richie, Hilton’s “The Simple Life” co-star; Famke Janssen of the “X-Men” films; and Nia Vardalos of “My Big Fat Greek Wedding.”

Perhaps they were looking for something to wear on the red carpet. Lhuillier, who began as a bridal-gown designer, has become popular with young Hollywood stars.

Her spring preview included a chiffon gown in a delicate sage floral print and two teal chiffon gowns, one with a keyhole top, pleated bust and beaded neckline, the other featuring an illusion necklace.

The Los Angeles-based designer, making her fourth appearance at the New York shows, also offered daytime outfits, include a belted white linen military jacket with white linen Bermuda shorts and a Chantilly lace-ruffle wrap blouse, a V-neck cashmere sweater and a slip skirt in various shades of yellow.

New York Fashion Week continues through Wednesday at the tents in Bryant Park and other venues throughout the city, with Ralph Lauren, Michael Kors, Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui and Betsey Johnson still to come.

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On the Net:

http://www.olympusfashionweek.com/spring2005/

AP-ES-09-11-04 1608EDT