I always assumed that Dairy Maid had existed on its patch along Route 196 for all of time. It was there when I traveled to Reid State Park or Popham as a kid. It was there when I moved to Lewiston and began scrounging for food. It’s there now, scooping out ice cream and serving burgers and fries to the hungry traveler.

Every spring, Dairy Maid blossoms on its spot between mini malls and gas stations, a small sweet-smelling building that hearkens back to a different age – an age before drive-through windows and home delivery. For the entire summer, its parking lot will be full as sunburned families refuel after long days on the coast.

It never occurred to me to ask about the history of Dairy Maid because frankly, I’ve never known a time when it wasn’t there. Now that I’m enlightened, I tracked down Janet McGraves, who owns the joint and who has been wielding its ice cream scoops since the era of Happy Days.

How long has Dairy Maid been around? Since 1952. Mother and Father built it from scratch; they even cleared the lot, then hired a contractor to build the building. Mr. Earle, who sold them the land, later joked that if he had known it was going to be a business, he would’ve charged more.

Back then, there was not much else in the area. Just fields, lightning bugs and Builders Supply across the street. The high school was built around the same time.

When did you start working there? When I was 11 years old. I could hardly see over the top. That’s why I can make change so well; we didn’t have registers.

What’s the funnest part of the job? Being creative, thinking up different flavors of ice cream and how to put them together. Meeting a lot of people. Memories of a lot of people who have worked for me. Working with my twin, Jane.

What’s the hardest part? Hours. A lot of hours. I’m here every day that we are open.

What’s your favorite ice cream? Chocolate soft serve.