It was only a couple of hours from central Maine, but it seemed like we were on a different planet.
Even under normal circumstances, it looks something like a picture of Mars.
With a soupy, thick cloud cover and gusty winds, it was downright other-worldly and intimidating.
The visibility was only about 15 feet, and the swirling winds were an added distraction.
We hiked from one cairn to another, always keeping the last rock pile in sight until we found the next.
Actually, it was more like rock scrambling than hiking, and we had to be constantly focused to ensure that we didn’t slip and fall on the wet rocks.
This was no place for an injury.
Sometimes, the surrounding rocks were so large that they appeared to be cairns, which added to the confusion.
On one occasion, we were unable to see a cairn above, and Dick waited at the last, while I stumbled around staying within shouting distance until I found the next. Despite the obstacles, we gradually ascended towards the summit. I knew we were close when we encountered another line of cairns converging with ours, as three trails met at or near the summit. Dick marked a cairn on our trail with his scarf, and we made a point of memorizing the area, so that we wouldn’t accidentally follow the wrong trail on our descent. Then there were no more rocks above us. Without the views, it was almost anticlimactic, but we had made it to the summit of Mount Adams, which is the second-highest peak in the northeast.
We quickly began our descent, while our recollections of the trail were fresh in our minds. We found Dick’s scarf, then carefully worked our way down the summit cone. Recognizing many of the cairns increased our confidence level, but we were still very cognizant of the need to go slow and avoid injury. It was less than a half-mile from the summit to Thunderstorm Junction on the Gulfside Trail, where the third member of our group awaited us. He heard our voices as we approached and called out. We followed the cairns toward him until were able to make out the outlines of the mammoth 10-foot cairn at the junction.
The three of us were on a strenuous three-day backpacking trip in the Presidential Range of New Hampshire’s White Mountains. My companions were the father-and-son team of Bill and Dick Kaiser. Bill is 72 years young and an inspiration to both of us.
He and Dick had decided to revisit a trip they had shared more than 40 years ago, when Dick was just a youngster. I felt privileged to have been invited to join them.
This was our second day out, as we had climbed Mt. Madison, the northern most Presidential peak the previous day. So far, we had experienced a complete contradiction of the weather forecast, which called for abundant sunshine, warm temperatures and light winds. Instead, we had thick clouds and 50 mile-an-hour winds on Mt. Madison and even thicker clouds, but somewhat lighter winds, on Mt. Adams. There is a reason why there are signs in the area warning that some of the “world’s worst weather” has occurred in the alpine region of the Presidentials.
Two of the most important considerations when planning a backpacking trip in the Presidentials are fitness and safety. The Presidential Range is the highest east of the Mississippi and north of the Carolinas.
The trails are steep and boulder strewn, and many exceed 4,000 feet in elevation gain. Further, your pack will probably weigh 50 pounds or more. The weather conditions frequently change dramatically and can be extreme, even during the summer months. It is not unusual for a warm summer day to quickly become almost winter-like and dangerous. Would be backpackers should have a high level of fitness, and carry clothing for the full spectrum of potential weather conditions.
A map and compass and the ability to use them are essential.
From my viewpoint, the most important equipment considerations are hiking boots and the backpack. Hiking boots should be carefully fitted and provide ankle support and cushioning for the soles of the feet. I recommend that the boots be fully tested prior to beginning the hike.
Two days into a trip is no time to find out that your boots aggravate your feet or cause blisters. Care should also be taken in selecting a pack that comfortably fits your body size. The newer internal frame packs are generally more comfortable and easier to fit than the older external frame models. Don’t sacrifice quality for cost with either of these items, as they can make a substantial difference in your outdoor experience.
There are restrictions on camping in the Presidentials.
The rules change from year to year and are governed by the U.S. Forest Service (USFS), who can be reached at their office in Laconia, N.H. The Randolph Mountain Club (RMC), a non-profit mountaineering club located in New Hampshire, maintains two cabins and two shelters in the northern Presidentials in partnership with the USFS.
The RMC also maintains trails and publishes contour maps and a guidebook. To learn more about the RMC visit their Web site at www.randolphmountainclub.org.
The easiest way to reach the northern Presidentials from central and western Maine is to drive to Bethel and then travel west on Route 2 through Gorham, N.H.
We began our hike at the Appalachia Trailhead and parking area, which is on the left 4.4 miles west of Gorham on Route 2. On our first day, we hiked the Valley Way trail on the north side of Mt. Madison for a little over 3 miles and 3,000 feet of elevation gain to the USFS Valley Tentsite. There are two tent platforms at the site, but water is not readily available. The closest source is about a 10-minute hike further up the trail. All water in the Presidentials should be treated, boiled or purified prior to drinking.
The Valley Tentsite provides an excellent base camp for a hike to the summit of the 5,344 foot Mt. Madison. During our ascent to the tent site, we encountered several hikers who had been turned back from their summit attempts earlier in the day by winds that had approached 100 miles an hour. Fortunately, the winds subsided some for us, but we still had a challenging hike in heavy cloud cover with gusty winds that made hiking upright difficult.
The following day, we took a nearby spur trail to the Airline Trail, which ascends an exposed ridge towards the 5,799 foot Mt. Adams. At the top of the ridge, we joined the Gulfside trail and headed southwesterly in the clouds and wind to the giant cairn at Thunderstorm Junction. After our hike to the summit of Mt. Adams, we huddled in the lee of the cairn and enjoyed a breezy lunch.
We experienced some breaks in the clouds as we continued west on the Gulfside Trail to the Israel Ridge Path, which we descended steeply for about a mile to the RMC shelter called the Perch. The Perch has a large Adirondack-style shelter, plus four tent platforms, and a readily available water supply. There is an RMC caretaker who stays at the Gray Knob Camp about a mile away and there is a $5 per person camping fee.
On our third day, we arose to what can only be described as a glorious day of sunshine and moderate winds. The mountain gods had finally rewarded our patience and persistence, so Dick and I decided to climb the 5,716 foot Mt. Jefferson. We quickly ascended the Randolph Path to the almost always breezy Edmands Col, which is named for one of the regions mountaineering pioneers. From there, we climbed steeply to the ragged Mt. Jefferson summit, which provided spectacular views of Mt. Adams to our northeast and Mt. Washington to our south.
We returned to the Perch, gathered up our tents and gear and descended the Randolph Path to the Lowe Path near the RMC shelter called The Cabin. From there, it is about 2.5 miles north to the Lowe Path Trailhead on Route 2. There is no parking allowed at the trailhead, but there is parking available across the highway at Lowe’s Store for a small fee.
The Lowe Path Trailhead was an easy two miles of highway driving west of our starting point at the Appalachia Trailhead. However, the circuitous route that we had taken had provided us with steep and challenging hikes, spectacular views, majestic summits and turbulent weather conditions.
The Presidentials truly provide one of New England’s premiere outdoor experiences.
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