Stainless steel pot that holds at least five gallons

Two large buckets that hold at least five gallons each

An airlock (comes in different styles) to let carbon dioxide out and prevent bacteria from getting in

Strainer or racking cane

Several feet of heavy vinyl hose

Two cases of clean, non-twist-top brown bottles

Package of crown caps

A bottle capper

Chlorine bleach for sanitizer

Standard ingredients needed:

Two cans of unhopped malt extract (or dry malt); choose color of your taste

Two ounces of hops (comes in pellets or leaf), as green as possible

Package of ale yeast (comes in dry and liquid)

2/3 cup of dextrose, known as corn sugar

1. The first and most important step to a good batch of brew is cleaning. Scrub your kitchen and your equipment. Any unwanted microbes or particles can alter the taste and even ruin your beer. And be prepared to clean again during the process and afterward. So make sure you have a big chunk of time before getting started.

2. Begin the boil and create the “wort.” Wort is the unfermented liquid that starts the beer. Fill your stainless steel 5-gallon-plus pot about two-thirds full of water. Turn the burner on high. Add malt, which can come in a liquid extract form or a dry powder form. Stir constantly until the malt is completely dissolved. (Even with the extract, Jason Dumont found that neglecting the stirring can leave burned malt on the bottom of the pot.) Boil for a full hour.

3. Add the hops. Hops are harvested from female plants grown specifically for different flavors. To have a true pilsner, a particular kind of hops grown only in eastern Europe can be used. These plant products give the beer flavor and aroma. You can get them in pellet or leaf form, and the greener the better. Add some of your hops when your wort comes to a rolling boil and again at the end of the boil to give it fresh flavor. Jason Dumont prefers more hops than most recipes call for.

4. Cool the wort. Pour wort into a 5-gallon-plus bucket and cover with an airtight lid. Jason Dumont adds water to bring his brew to its required volume. He prefers using only bottled water to avoid the taste and possibility of contamination that minerals and other particles from tap water may cause. However, other home-brewers suggest that if water is drinkable, then it’s usable for making beer. Once the liquid is in the bucket, keep the lid on tight. Cool completely before adding yeast or the hot temperature will kill the yeast microorganisms and prevent fermentation.

5. Sanitize. Sanitize. Sanitize. Anything that will touch your wort from this point on has to be free of any contamination. So make sure your tubing, bottles, caps, strainers and any other tools have been sterilized. A simple bleach solution and thorough rinse will do the trick.

6. Ferment your wort. This is when your beer is actually going to turn into alcohol. Sprinkle your yeast. (Most people use a dry form of brewing yeast, but some yeast comes in a more pasty form.) Home-brewers refer to this step as “pitching” the yeast. For the next couple of days to possibly a couple of weeks, the yeast will multiply and produce alcohol. Expect lots of activity in your bucket. If you use a clear container, you can watch the yeast in action and create a dirty-looking foam. Wait until the liquid is clear and the yeast has settled before going on to the next step.

7. Bottle and condition your beer. You now have alcohol, but it is uncarbonated at this point. Transfer the flat beer into a clean bucket, leaving behind any residue. A strainer can be used. Add sugar. The sugar will react to any remaining yeast and result in carbonization. Attach your hose to the bucket spout, or siphon from the bottom if there is no spout, and fill your bottles. Use brown bottles to prevent light from reacting negatively with your beer – otherwise it will get a skunky flavor and smell. Leave about an inch of space in each bottle. Carbonization will continue for a few days.

8. Cap your bottles. Most brewing kits come with sterile bottle caps. When using recycled bottles, do NOT use twist-off types because the caps won’t seal properly. An inexpensive capper is also available in most supply shops, which will crimp the caps onto each bottle.

9. Store the bottles at room temperature for a couple of weeks. (Cold storage is used in a different fermentation process for lager, which is different from ale.) The amount of time you should wait to pop open that first bottle is open for debate. Experimentation is key throughout the entire process. Sometimes you get a good batch, sometimes you don’t. The more you brew, the more you can predict what will happen and create what you want. Jason Dumont said he made about eight or nine batches before he felt truly comfortable enough to venture away from kits and recipes.

10. Drink your home-brew. Don’t forget to share!